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April 01, 2025

Debutants of Design Atelier

O
ne of the questions I’m most frequently asked in advance of COUTURE each year is, “Who’s new in Design Atelier?!” Retailers, press and industry influencers have all come to rely upon Design Atelier for discovering the latest, greatest and hottest jewelry on the scene! Open to emerging talent, this area of our show is a three-year opportunity, meaning the designers move up the hall over the course of three years before eventually “graduating” into a salon within our main ballroom.

COUTURE’s Design Atelier is an opportunity for mentorship, for an honest exchange of ideas and experiences, and for fostering friendships.

CHRSTNS

Image courtesy of Bijules

It is a uniquely rewarding experience to witness the evolution of these brands. First comes your discovery of their work. Whether you’ve known of them for years or they’re only just coming into your orbit, the level of creativity and ingenuity they present at COUTURE always feel like a pleasant surprise! Then to see how their work progresses over the three years and the relationships that form and flourish among the designers is heartwarming; the sense of camaraderie in that sunlit hallway is unparalleled. And to see relationships forming between Design Atelier designers and more seasoned brands is also heartening. First time designers often get the chance to meet their design heroes in person, and how cool is that?!

Image courtesy of ZAHN-Z

COUTURE’s Design Atelier is an opportunity for mentorship, for an honest exchange of ideas and experiences, and for fostering friendships. For the first time ever, we wanted to highlight all of the brands who are showcasing their work for the first time in COUTURE’s Design Atelier (all 12 of them!). In addition to highlighting some of their work, we were also interested in seeing COUTURE through their first-time eyes.

Image courtesy of Bijules

Jules Kim, Bijules:

As a former mentee in COUTURE’s volunteer designer mentorship program, and its mentee liaison for the past several years, Jules Kim of Bijules is no stranger to COUTURE. Exhibiting with “The Radiance by COUTURE” in 2022, she has also attended our event several times with an eye on expanding her knowledge and experience in the industry, and in turn enhancing our world with her unique designs and singular aesthetic. Already beloved by the COUTURE community, we can’t wait to see the ways in which Jules is going to push the envelope on the artform during her Design Atelier debut.

Image courtesy of Bijules

COUTURE: Why COUTURE?!

Jules Kim: I have been launching jewelry collections for 20 years across the globe in various markets, from underground New York niche to Paris’ pinnacle Place Vendôme. Not until I was invited to the COUTURE community did I find a tribe of curious and warm people who believe in the sentimental aspects of fine jewelry and the steadfast belief that beauty exists in many forms.

Image courtesy of Bijules

What is your favorite part of the jewelry making process?

JK: As a self-taught jewelry designer and maker, I learned through trial and error. Even when a jeweler’s saw pierced my hand, I couldn’t wait to finish the piece. The giddiness of an initial idea permeates every stage of making until the final product is conceived. When we accept the medium as our teacher, we become witness to joy, pride and utter humility. In distributing the product, our ideas and values are passed on one client at a time.

 

Image courtesy of By Pariah

Sophie Howard, By Pariah:

Founder of By Pariah, Sophie Howard, views the natural world through a lens of refinement. Inspired by the materials with which she works, she is drawn to the symmetry, architecture and curves of nature and her work serves to enhance its organic beauty through sleek, elegant silhouettes. With a background in luxury communications, Sophie strives for her work to be a means of personal expression and we cannot wait to see how she expands upon her already distinctive lexicon at COUTURE.

Image courtesy of By Pariah

COUTURE: Why COUTURE?!

Sophie Howard: Because where else can you find a room full of people who understand that jewellery isn’t just an accessory—it’s a personality trait? COUTURE is where the magic happens, where craftsmanship meets innovation, and where I get to showcase my jewellery to those who truly get it.

 

Image courtesy of By Pariah

What is your favorite part of the jewelry-making process?

SH: The moment when a sketch transforms into a tangible piece—when the gold is cast, the gemstones are set, and suddenly, something that lived in my head is ready to be worn and adored. It’s like alchemy…but make it chic.

Image courtesy of CHRSTNS

Steffie Christiaens, CHRSTNS:

With an extensive background in fashion, the Parisian designer behind CHRSTNS, Steffie Christiaens, is able to expand beyond jewelry as mere adornment. Believing that true luxury lies in understanding and connecting with the individual who will wear her work, she weaves the narratives of multi-cultural, immersive experiences and the intricacies of relationships into her designs. When we invited Steffie to “wax poetic” about her Design Atelier debut, she took the request literally and penned a poem.

Image courtesy of CHRSTNS

Where a still mind  

is magnified by the sun  

Where essence 

is life itself 

Where time separates  

from the time  

Where everything unifies  

with the nothing  

Image courtesy of CHRSTNS

Where tiny sculptures of precious metal  

are purified by fire 

Where a charm of gold 

Carries you on a journey 

Where a timeless message of love and connection  

is shared 

Where he, she and that  

become the world  

Love becomes absolute 

Where words separate  

from the words  

CHRSTNS 

Image courtesy of Joelle Kharrat

Joelle Kharrat:

Raised in Lebanon, Joelle Kharrat grew up with an inherent understanding of the intimate connectivity between jewelry and personal self-expression. After moving to Paris for her studies, she spent a decade in the City of Lights pursuing a career in fashion and cosmetic marketing. Returning to Beirut, Joelle launched her eponymous line with her iconic Totem collection in 2022. Incorporating the elements of Air, Earth, Fire and Water, we are thrilled to see how she expands upon this sculptural and modular design motif for her COUTURE debut.

Image courtesy of Joelle Kharrat

COUTURE: Jewelry trend you’re coveting or looking to contribute to with your pieces?

Joelle Kharrat: Think Art meets jewelry for the woman of today. A very sculptural and feminine Pendant that will pass generations and time.

Image courtesy of Joelle Kharrat

What inspires you the most? 

JK: I am deeply influenced by Architecture, Art, Symbolism, and my Oriental & Occidental backgrounds. In a world that is breaking up, dividing, I am looking for emblems of belonging, consolidation, and robustness.

Image courtesy of JV Insardi

Jen Insardi, JV Insardi:

JV Insardi jewelry artfully conveys the worldview of its designer, Jen Insardi. Her lavish use of 18 karat gold, either on its own or adorned with diamonds and precious gemstones, results in a sense of permanence to her work. Every line and curve of Jen’s designs are meticulously and thoughtfully conceived, and with her innate understanding of the emotional effects of spatial composition born of her years designing interiors, she provides collectors of her work with the ability to express their own narrative through her designs.

Image courtesy of JV Insardi

COUTURE: How do you fuel your creativity?

Jen Insardi: Designing with other mediums outside of the traditional jewelry elements. I am in my most creatively driven mood when painting in oils and then overlaying with oil pastels. The paint allows for the free thinking of macro ideas and movements, while the pastels are more controlled and provides the unexpected details. Additionally, designing interiors and visualizing the impact the space has on your mood challenges me and frequently inspires the next piece of jewelry.

 

Image courtesy of JV Insardi

What is your favorite part of the jewelry making process?

JI: Allowing the mood I am in to overtake the design process and create what initially feels like an obstacle but then pushes my design capabilities. The pieces I agonize over the most, and sometimes would prefer to scrap, end up being the pieces I am most proud of and have the interesting narrative behind them. If a piece is too easy to design or there is no innate desire to question any part of it, it would have too predictable of an end result. I do not prefer predictability.

 

Image courtesy of Laura Gallon

Laura Gallon

Designer Laura Gallon pays homage to her family’s heritage through her work. Her great grandparents, Georges and Alice Gallon, earned a reputation for imaginative jewelry designs and exceptional craftsmanship in their jewelry shop and atelier in France in the 1920’s. Incorporating those same themes of Art Deco design, 100 years later, Laura reinterprets these classic and enduring silhouettes through a modern and contemporary lens.

Image courtesy of Laura Gallon

COUTURE: What inspires you the most?

Laura Gallon: My father’s grandparents, Georges and Alice Gallon, established their jewelry store and workshop in Orléans, two hours south of Paris, in 1920 to dedicate their lives to the art of fine jewelry. They crafted breathtaking pieces, a few which we were fortunate enough to retrieve. For me, it all started when my father gave me a pair of fan-shaped platinum and diamond earrings made by Georges. Holding these beautiful pieces in my hands, I realized the weight of my family’s jewelry heritage and I embarked on a quest to know more about them and their work. I found invoices, documents and photos, slowly putting the pieces of the puzzle back together. I designed a collection inspired by the fan-shaped earrings in 2021 which is named “Alice” as a tribute to my great-grandmother. Their work and creative DNA is my greatest source of inspiration. I want to look backwards in order to move forward.

Image courtesy of Laura Gallon

What is your favorite part of the jewelry making process?

LG: As a gemologist, my favorite part is the selection of the gemstones for the collections. I put a lot of care and attention into it and it’s something that my clients truly value. They know that I always select the best gems in terms of color, clarity and cut. I will always remember my first time at the Tucson Gem Show. I was so overwhelmed by the amount of exhibitors at first but quickly found my way around. Somehow, my eyes gravitate towards some stones more than others. It’s almost as if they have their own aura and that I have a sensitivity to it. Seeing the finished pieces for the first time after having dreamed of them, sketched them and followed their progress with the workshop is also quite a magical feeling 🙂

Image courtesy of LOF Jewellery

Morgan Mackintosh, LOF Jewellery:  

Designer of LOF Jewellery, Morgan Mackintosh, is self-taught artist of her chosen medium. Looking at her lack of formal training as an advantage, Morgan feels free to express her creativity instinctually, following the whims of her curiosity without the constraints of expectations or tradition. Her background in music is evident in the fluidity of her pieces, with the rhythm of the curves in her designs punctuated by geometric lines of metal and gemstones.

Image courtesy of LOF Jewellery

COUTURE: What is your favorite part of the jewelry making process?

Morgan Mackinstoch: I love the early stages of sketching my ideas. There is a vast expanse of creative freedom and possibility at this point. You aren’t held back yet by practicality or having to think about the costs to actually get it made (I tend to go crazy with my initial designs and then have to pull myself back a bit!). I think my favorite part of the jewelry making process though is the moment just before it’s finished: fresh off the workbench and ready to be polished, or for those final stones to be added. There is such a buzz.  The journey from inspiration, to sketch, to samples, to revisions, finally to this moment can be long, and so the anticipation is immense. There is a kind of blissful calm before the “storm” of business and admin take over – you can just enjoy the final stage of piece. It really is thrilling.

Image courtesy of LOF Jewellery

How do you fuel your creativity? 

MM: I like to travel mostly, or just walk around the city I’m in, whether it’s home in Los Angeles (though admittedly long strolls in LA are limited), or in London where I’m from. I get so much of my inspiration from random floor tiles (I have been particularly inspired by tiles on trips to Italy and Morocco), from patterns on a wall or door, and from unique buildings or the spaces between them. Many of my finished designs are drawn from that sort of thing. I like designing that way as it feels like a little travel diary when I look back at them. One of the first “dates” my husband and I went on when we moved to LA was in a little wine bar in Los Feliz and there was a random pattern of cracks on a wall on the way from our car to the bar that really drew me in. I took a photo of the wall and it eventually led to the André Necklace.

Image courtesy of Mason H Jewels

Maison H Jewels:

While the Dubai-based team of artisans at Maison H Jewels is fueled by the inherent sentimentality in jewelry and its connection to life’s most meaningful moments, it is their affinity for textures that is a distinguishing feature of their work. Inspired by the grace of the ballet and enamored by the ductility and malleability of gold, their work wears like a second skin, mimicking the curves and swoops of the human body and exalting exotic forms in nature.

Image courtesy of Mason H Jewels

COUTURE: Why COUTURE?

Maison H Jewels: COUTURE is where visionaries and tastemakers converge—where the boldest, most forward-thinking brands connect with collectors, retailers, and global buyers who seek more than just luxury; they seek meaning, individuality, and artistry. Maison H Jewels doesn’t follow trends—we create them, and COUTURE is the ultimate platform to introduce our avant-garde approach to those who appreciate the extraordinary.

 

Image courtesy of Mason H Jewels

How do you fuel your creativity?

MHJ: Creativity is the heartbeat of Maison H Jewels. It is fueled by an unrelenting pursuit of artistic expression, drawing inspiration from architecture, nature, history, and movement. Each collection we create is an exploration—whether it’s fluid gold textures that mimic reptilian skin, wings crafted from precisely cut baguette diamonds, or gemstones that appear to melt into the metal as if frozen in time.

Our process is deeply immersive. We experiment with materials and techniques, pushing the limits of gold’s malleability and diamond settings to achieve designs that feel as natural as a second skin. We are constantly exploring new textures, unconventional placements, and avant-garde finishing techniques to craft pieces that redefine how jewellery is worn and experienced.

 

Image courtesy of Ohliguer

Ohliguer:

With a family legacy that spans generations and includes the cousin of the last Russian tzar, giant stones mined from the Ural Mountains, a treacherous escape with a baby in a hand basket, and training under great Roman master jewelers, Ohliguer was made to be iconic. Hailing from Australia, the two sisters behind the brand, Jessica and Holly, embrace a more is more mentality where there is no place for fear, self-doubt or subtlety.

Image courtesy of Ohliguer

Why COUTURE?! 

Ohliguer stretches the boundaries of design and Couture is the next step. 

What has surprised you about the jewelry world thus far? 

I have been in the jewellery industry for about 15 years, and I thought that I had seen it all until I was asked to make Madonna a crown in less than two weeks. 

Image courtesy of Ohliguer

How do you fuel your creativity? 

Intense concentration. I lock myself in a room, drink 5 -10 coffees, and draw designs until my hand hurts. 

Bold gold or quiet luxury? 

BOLD. Life is too short to wear boring jewels. 

Image courtesy of Ophelia Eve

Samantha and Beth Yorn, Ophelia Eve:

The founders of Ophelia Eve, Samantha and Beth Yorn, bring combined experience in fashion and jewelry to their distinctive collections. Incorporating Victorian motifs in combination with knife edge cuts, offset diamonds and kite-shaped stones, the designs are at once both classic and contemporary. With unique finishes, all elements of their intricately detailed designs have been lovingly conceived and thoughtfully executed.

Image courtesy of Ophelia Eve

COUTURE: Dream magazine feature? 

Samantha Yorn: The Adventurine—The way Marion Fasel celebrates jewelry and culture is nothing short of incredible. Her recent book on the history of diamond engagement rings had us drooling! She has impeccable taste, and it’s always a joy to follow her work.

Image courtesy of Ophelia Eve

What has surprised you about the jewelry world thus far?
 
SY: The jewelry world’s deep sense of community and inclusivity has been the biggest surprise. After the recent fires in L.A., we saw the industry rally together without hesitation, supporting one another with remarkable passion, collaboration, and resilience.  

Image courtesy of White Space

Khadijah Fulton, White Space:

While White Space designer, Khadijah Fulton, may be known as a Queen of Pearls, it is the marriage of daring dichotomies in her work that truly defines her distinct aesthetic. Restrained and sexy, delicate and strong, White Space evokes a unique, dynamic energy that appeals to a broad range of jewelry enthusiasts. With pieces that push pre-conceived notions of what pearl design should look like, Khadijah has also expanded her collection to include diamonds and colored gemstones.

Image courtesy of White Space

Why COUTURE?!

Khadijah Fulton: COUTURE is a place where every jewelry designer’s wildest creative dreams have a home. There is such appreciation for the individual voices and contributions of every artist. It’s also an opportunity to be a part of the most fun week in the industry, surrounded by all of the unique and stylish personalities that permeate the jewelry world!

Image courtesy of White Space

What inspires you the most?

KF: When an artist is able to consistently communicate and evolve their creative voice over time. I pull inspiration from various disciplines, from music, to architecture, to product design -and as I grow in my journey as an artist and business owner, I am most inspired by the artist whose voice has become even more clear and distinct, while expanding into new shapes and ideas. It’s much easier said than done, and something I aspire to everyday.

Image courtesy of ZAHN-Z

Hiba Husayni, ZAHN-Z

A former architect, Syrian-born designer Hiba Husayni is inspired by famed architect, Dame Zaha Hadid, who once said, “There are 360 degrees, so why stick to one?” Hiba’s collections are complex in their simplicity. Just like the French Damascene houses of her childhood, where a plain exterior gives way to a magical world of fountains, lavish gardens, tiles, arches, mosaics and mother-of-pearl furniture, her jewelry is at once both subtle and breathtaking. Her inimitable designs continually evolve, with variations on a theme expanding beyond diamonds into colorful gemstones and intricate patterned enamel.

Image courtesy of ZAHN-Z

Why COUTURE?! 

Hiba Husayni: This has been my goal since 2013—when a 23-year-old girl, who graduated with a bachelor’s degree in architecture during the unrest in Syria, in a country struggling to grow, decided that life is too short not to do what you love and follow your passion. Amidst the chaos and uncertainty, I knew I had to take control of my future. Leaving Syria behind and venturing alone to the U.S. was a leap of faith, but with my parents’ unwavering support, I took that chance to build a life for myself.  

Now, at 36, after 13 years of perseverance and growth, I’m debuting at COUTURE. This journey has been a testament to following your dreams no matter how challenging the road may be. 

For me, COUTURE is where I can truly bring my passion to life and share it with a community that values artistry and design in its purest form. It’s the perfect fit for where I am in my journey—challenging, inspiring, and full of possibilities. 

Image courtesy of ZAHN-Z

How do you fuel your creativity?  

HH: My inspiration comes from experiencing life and the world around me. Traveling is a huge part of it, but when I can’t, I turn to Animal Planet. There’s something incredible about seeing how nature combines colors, textures, and forms in everything, from tiny creatures like caterpillars and jellyfish to the biggest, like whales, which even inspired The Beluga Collection. The way they move, the sounds they make, and their natural beauty spark my creativity. Whether it’s the smallest details or the grandest designs, nature—both big and small—constantly fuels my ideas and vision, pushing me to see the world in new ways. It’s a constant source of inspiration, whether I’m seeing it in person or through a screen.  

I also find profound inspiration in architects and their masterpieces. Zaha Hadid’s Heydar Aliyev Center in Baku, Azerbaijan, served as a significant influence for The ZAHA Collection. The sense of movement and fluidity achieved through a combination of reinforced concrete and a unique space frame structure of steel beams and columns captivates me. 

 

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