Design Atelier is a juried curation of brands who begin their first year exhibiting in the back of the hall, then the middle, and finally, in their third and final year, towards the front of the hall. Located just outside our primary ballroom, Cristal, the natural light-filled corridor is a destination for discovery, and a place where many of these designers learn some very valuable lessons about both their lives and their businesses.

This year, we had 17 graduates of Design Atelier, 12 of whom we caught up with for this story. When we asked about highlights of their time in Design Atelier and some of their key takeaways, we noticed there seemed to be a bit of collective consciousness at play, with many noting their admiration for other COUTURE designers and several attributing their time in Design Atelier with instilling in them a sense of confidence that they will undoubtedly carry with them as they move forward in their careers.

While each of these designers may not exactly want to graduate into a salon, as Jenny McHugh from Charlotte and Campbell expressed when she told me, “I would like to formally submit my intent to fail Design Atelier ‘graduation’ so I can stay in the DA hall indefinitely,” there is no question in our minds that these talents will continue to make waves within our community and beyond.

Alice Herald:

COUTURE: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier? 

Alice Herald: 9am on the first day, in the first year and the flood of people into the Design Atelier! Feeling like a rabbit in the headlights with happy nerves running through me.

C: What 3 words best describe your collection? 

AH: Story, presence, striking.

C: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier?

AH: I’ve delved deeper into story to showcase unique one-of-a-kind jewels within my collections. I also really hero my use of NZ alluvial gold bringing more 18kt yellow gold into the pieces.

COUTURE: What is one piece of advice you wish someone had given you sooner?

AH: Slow down. Give yourself and others time to absorb what you have achieved and enjoy the present. The urge to constantly produce new pieces isn’t necessary for a new brand, give people time to get to know you.

C: What message do you want to leave for your future self? 

AH: Alice, you’ve done it (or are still doing it!) You believed in yourself and your dreams and led a team with great passion to create a jewelry brand that values bold unique design, exquisite craftsmanship, origin and story. Remember the doubt and all the micro steps it took to get where you are today. Remember sitting at your bench in the studio or your mini design breaks by the coast to design your first international collection. Remember fails and how we got through them to make something even better. I hope that you are immensely proud of what you have achieved and grateful for all the brilliant people you’ve met and worked with along the way. What a colorful life, full of curiosity and driven by the potential of what could be.

Campbell + Charlotte

COUTURE: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier? 

Jenny McHugh: It is crazy to think how much happens in three years. 1) More intentional cohesiveness across the line with a stronger cross collection story – I’ve learned so much about the importance of how your collection merchandises together across collections. Most retailers will only have a small selection of the line and you want to make sure collections will merchandise well together so they aren’t pigeonholed into one collection. This makes investing into the line easier for stores when they see a strong story. I’ve learned to focus on signature details that make your line recognizable but also help cross collection merchandising easy for retailers as they select their assortment.

2.  Leaning into what makes you unique and worrying less about being everything to everybody. I’ve learned that it is ok and probably ideal that your line won’t appeal to everyone. If you design to fit into every store, you have designed to appeal to no one because nothing is unique or special about the line. Leaning into the details and design elements that really make me happy has elevated the line into something that is more unique and special in the market. I think this skill of designing using your gut vs. thinking about only the market is a muscle you develop over time and one I have done more so over my three years in Design Atelier.

C: What is one piece of advice you wish someone had given you sooner?

JM: Walk the floor when you are at COUTURE and introduce yourself to other designers! I was really nervous my first year that the community would be competitive and not welcoming but I have been blown away by the friends I have made – both in Design Atelier and elsewhere at COUTURE. Those friends have helped me so much in supporting decisions and serving as a resource or sounding board over the years. I wish I had done more of this my first year at the show.

Claudia Mae:

COUTURE: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier?  

Claudia Mae: I have brought my mom with me to every COUTURE so far, and my favorite memories are from our very first year when I had a somewhat complicated ring display that she managed to ruin EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. she opened the case. Nomad rings were flying everywhere; we still laugh about it today.

C: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier? 

CM: 1) We have leveled up our jewelry displays significantly! This is a big investment for any designer but so worth it!

2) During our first year the line consisted mostly of rings, but we have since expanded into all jewelry categories, taking feedback from buyers and building out our concepts into full collections.

Helena Rose:

COUTURE: What is the most memorable moment of your time exhibiting in Design Atelier?

Orly Atias: Winning the People’s Choice Award, without question, is the most memorable moment of our three years in Design Atelier.

What made it especially meaningful was being chosen by community members who’ve spent decades in this industry, who know the craft inside and out, and whose opinion means everything to us. Being recognized by people of that caliber at a show like COUTURE was an honor beyond words.

OA: Flats, caffeine, snacks – in that order. COUTURE is a marathon disguised as a trade show!

MINED + FOUND:

COUTURE: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier?

Jenn Breznen: The engineering and the experience. The mechanics behind my kinetic designs have become increasingly sophisticated, enabling more complex ideas without compromising craftsmanship.

Equally important, I’ve come to see jewelry less as something to simply be viewed or worn, and more as something to be experienced. These shifts are fundamental to my design language, shaping jewelry that captures attention, invites participation and rewards discovery. It’s become the defining philosophy behind MINED + FOUND.

C: What message do you want to leave for your future self?

JB: Keep following your curiosity. It’s led you somewhere far more interesting than any plan ever could have and it will remain your greatest creative compass.

Rosario Navia:

COUTURE: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier?

Rosario Navia: My most memorable memory was when I was told that we were finalists for the Couture Awards. It was such a proud moment achieved through hard work and creativity. It felt very validating and is a moment that I will definitely remember from my time in Design Atelier.

C: What 3 words best describe your collection?

RN: Sculptural, modern, diamond forward.

C: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier?

RN: I love the way our collection has evolved throughout our time in Design Atelier. It has become bolder in both design and diamond size. Throughout our time in DA, we have also developed signature pieces that define our collection such as our Twist Pendants. We love how, while it has evolved every year, we have maintained a distinctive look that allows every piece to be worn together.

C: What message do you want to leave for your future self?

RN: Looking back from when I first got the acceptance e-mail to now, I have grown exponentially. I want to tell my future self to embrace growth and change, to enjoy the journey and to continue following my gut and creativity.

Sanaz Doost:

COUTURE: What 3 words best describe your collection?

Sanaz Doost: Geometry, Precision, Light.

C: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier?

SD: Design Atelier was where my work stood alongside some of the world’s most respected jewelry designers. Over three years, it challenged me to refine my design language, deepen my exploration of geometry and proportion, and elevate the level of craftsmanship behind every collection. 

The conversations, relationships, and shared commitment to exceptional design made it one of the most defining chapters of my journey as a designer.

Shinkai:

COUTURE: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier? 

Mizuki Shinkai: Being in that space alongside top designers from around the world, and getting to speak with them directly, was the highlight for us. It went beyond just seeing their finished pieces. Getting insight into how they think and approach their craft was the most valuable part of the whole experience.

C: What 3 words best describe your collection?

MS: Refined boldness, Authentic creativity, Effortless presence.

C: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier? 

MS: First, our design sense has become more decisive. We trust our own voice more now, and that confidence shows up as a stronger consistency across the collection. Second, our craftsmanship has caught up with our ambition. Years of refusing to compromise on detail have pushed our technical skill forward. We can now execute freer, bolder ideas with a level of polish we couldn’t have managed before.

C: What is one piece of advice you wish someone had given you sooner?

MS: Just take action. The older you get, the more people and opportunities cross your path, and your world keeps opening up. There’s no time to stand still. Chasing perfection gets you nowhere; taking the next step is what actually shows you what’s ahead.

C: What message do you want to leave for your future self?

MS: Hold onto your curiosity. No matter how much experience you gain, stay the kind of designer who still gets excited by new things and still enjoys the risk of trying them.

Statement Paris:

COUTURE: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier? 

Caroline Goiffon: So many memories, it would be hard to choose! There is so much energy in this part of the show. From the very first time we set up our booth in year one, to this third year’s last moment of dismantling it, now filled with emotion, there’s an entire life that unfolded in that corridor.

First, there is the designers’ community in the hall, like a backstage family. Then the clients who are helping us build the brand step by step, year after year. And of course, our team moments, the excitement, the tiredness, and all the little moments in between that stay with us long after the show ends.

C: What 3 words best describe your collection? 

CG: Audacious. Parisian. Statement!

Type Jewelry:

COUTURE: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier?

Sara Bassan: We evolved from one signature collection into a complete design universe, and we’ve become more confident in our aesthetic—focusing on a recognizable point of view rather than trends.

C: What is one piece of advice you wish someone had given you sooner?

SB: Trust your instincts sooner. Your uniqueness is your biggest advantage. The more authentic your vision, the more the right people will connect with it.

Van Robot:

COUTURE: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier?

Tatiana Van Lancker: The COUTURE community and my friendships with other Design Atelier designers.

C: What 3 words best describe your collection?

TVL: Irreverent, playful, joyful.

C: What 2 ways has your collection evolved since you first exhibited in Design Atelier?  

TVL: COUTURE inspired me to test boundaries with new designs, products and stone choices. COUTURE has helped me grow my business internationally, especially throughout the US.

C: What is one piece of advice you wish someone had given you sooner?

TVL: Always trust your instincts

C: What message do you want to leave for your future self?

TVL: I have always lived by this motto: “Go confidentially in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined.”

Vice Versa:

COUTURE: What is your best memory from your time exhibiting in COUTURE’s Design Atelier? 

Sophie Thoerner: Our favorite part of every COUTURE show is seeing which pieces people gravitate toward most from the new collection.

We have our predictions going in, but there’s always one design that surprises us and steals the show. There’s something so rewarding about watching months of design work resonate with people in real time.

C: What 3 words best describe your collection?

ST: Playful, timeless, smart.