
I
’ve attended COUTURE for more years than I’d like to say because it has actually been decades (yes, decades!). With this level of experience on the trade show floor, I can proclaim with certainty that 2022 was one of the most vibrant all-around presentations ever. There were loads of dazzling designs, a long list of emerging talent and trends galore.
One style that jumped out at me early and I saw repeatedly throughout the show was shoulder dusters. The design term, like so many in jewelry, is a bit of a loose definition.
One style that jumped out at me early and I saw repeatedly throughout the show was shoulder dusters.

MIZUKI
During the Art Deco era, it applied to 3-inch-long slender pendant earrings. They didn’t exactly dust the shoulder, but the shape and motif at the bottom mildly suggested a feather duster. So, the name was more playful than literal. Nowadays the term shoulder dusters is used to describe just about any long lean earring.
The new renditions I spotted among COUTURE designers Mizuki, Moksh, Prounis and VAK ran from the length of the Jazz Age jewels right on down to the shoulder. What was new about these dusters is how each designer managed to express their individuality in the limited lean long canvas. Read on to find out more.

MIZUKI
Mizuki
A native of Tokyo, designer Mizuki Goltz launched MIZUKI in New York in 1996. From the beginning she has focused on pearls. While that may sound limited, Mizuki has always made the marine gem look imaginative. One of her cool jewels, the pearl Safety Pin Earrings, have been enjoying an extended moment in the spotlight as they are among First Lady Dr. Jill Biden’s favorite accessories.

MIZUKI
Mizuki makes several different pairs of pearl shoulder dusters. “I love the shoulder duster because of its modern silhouette,” explains Mizuki. “Especially with the beauty of pearls which give a glow to the entire face. Depending on the scale shoulder dusters can be very feminine or bold and dramatic.”

Prounis
Prounis
Ancient Greek gold jewelry is a steady source of inspiration for New York City-based designer and goldsmith Jean Prounis of PROUNIS. Her interest in the classical world which stems from her family’s heritage can be seen clearly in her handmade 22K gold pieces featuring elements like granulation and wirework. Jean makes the old look new again by playing with proportions and adding in her own unique design spins.

Prounis
Perhaps nowhere is Jean’s reimagining of the classics more apparent than in her mega shoulder dusters. The designer has renditions in emeralds, coral and turquoise, pearls and diamonds. “I love long duster earrings, the slender shape reminds me of wind chimes,” explains Jean. “There is something musical about the length paired with their movement.”

VAK
VAK
VAK designer Vishal Kothari finds inspiration for his collection in the array of architectural styles around Mumbai where he lives and works. The lyrical lines of Mughal arches punctuate his creations. There are also hints of the city’s historic Victorian and Art Deco buildings in his jewels which are filled with colorful gems and portrait and rose cut diamonds.

VAK
Vishal brings his signature elements into the lean silhouette of his shoulder dusters which have as much expression as a statement necklace. The way the designer places uniquely shaped gems together clearly shows his passion for architecture. A black rhodium finish on white gold underscores the forms.
Vishal says he likes shoulder dusters because they are a “great way to add an element of drama to your evening looks.” The designer serves a performance worthy of an Oscar with these jewels.

Moksh
Moksh
Milan Tanvir Chokshi, the founder of Moksh jewelry based in Bombay, has a deep understanding and appreciation for jewelry history, particularly Mughal styles, the Art Deco era and even the 1980s. While that range may sound like it would turn into a mish-mash, the way Milan overseas the creations the looks become a magnificent remix with a modern twist.

Moksh
The Moksh shoulder dusters present this blend to perfection. Some come in the shorter about 3-inch-long length like Art Deco designs with millennial pink sapphire or elegant emeralds accenting the diamond designs. Then there are the dramatic pearl dusters which shimmy and shake like Mughal masterworks. When describing the jewels Milan says, “We have a tendency to have a flair for the dramatic in our work, and this style fits right in!”
The Founder and Editorial director of the beloved online fine jewelry magazine The Adventurine.com, Marion Fasel is as well known for her trend forecasting skills as her comprehensive knowledge of jewelry history. Over her career, she has written nine books on jewelry. Most recently, Marion curated the critically acclaimed 2021 exhibition Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired By the Animal Kingdom at the American Museum of Natural History.