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June 26, 2023

The Edit: Dispatch from COUTURE 2023

W
hen she wrote her “Love Letters” trend report in December of 2021, author, historian, curator and founder and editorial director of The Adventurine, Marion Fasel, admitted that initial jewelry is nothing new. Yet she adeptly showcased how the COUTURE designers she featured–Anita Ko, Harwell Godfrey, MATEO and Milamore–offered letter jewelry that was “worthy of our attention,” stating, “Well, now that we are many chapters into the personalization trend people have gotten very picky and quite sophisticated about what they want their jewels to look like.”

Header image features Sophie Bill Brahe.

During COUTURE 2023, it became apparent that several designers are continuing to reimagine literary expressions of creativity.

Jade Trau

During COUTURE 2023, it became apparent that several designers are continuing to reimagine literary expressions of creativity. Select designers have interpreted alphabet adornment through their creative lens, allowing collectors of their work to communicate through jewelry and showcasing the unique and imaginative ways in which singular perspectives can transform age-old concepts.

Renato Cipullo

All of the work of Italian-born, New York City-based designer, Renato Cipullo, evokes a cool, 1970’s vibe. A heritage brand, his iconic aesthetic is both sophisticated and edgy, and he continues to build upon classic themes and identifiable silhouettes throughout his body of work. The brand’s Splendente Collection was influenced by 70’s motifs and Italian graphic design. The box-style pendants feature intricate lattice work on the reverse and a bale that functions as a clasp so his letter charms can be easily added to a necklace or bracelet.

Jade Trau

A fifth generation diamantaire, designer Jade Trau is masterful at leveraging her expansive knowledge of diamonds to create classic pieces that have a fresh, modern appeal. Antique jewelry influences are evident in many of Jade’s extensive collections, and her Letter Charms pay homage to the sentimentality of the Victorian era. The elegant, sans-serif font of her alphabet is adorned with diamonds and has a three-dimensional silhouette that creates a sense of permanence in these satin finished, 18k gold designs. With jewelry that was made to be stacked and layered, Jade’s letter charms offer a perfect punctuation of personalization to any jewelry ensemble.

 

Sophie Bille Brahe

There is an elegant simplicity in the work of Copenhagen-based designer, Sophie Bill Brahe. A natural storyteller, the foundation of each of Sophie’s collections is a reflection of a universe of her own creation, which is informed by her immersion into other worlds. Her Ensemble collection represents the designer’s version of a signet family ring and was inspired by poetry, “Taking Sophie’s own handwriting as a starting point, the designer imagines how the letters have grown onto her hands to unfold like an expanding universe,”  notes a brand statement. The graceful swoop of letters are accented by graduating diamonds that enhance the feeling of movement in the pieces and creates a sophisticated means of paying homage to one’s loved ones.

Dana Rebecca Designs

While they weren’t quite ready for a COUTURE 2023 debut, the Poppy Rae Pebble Initial Necklace from Dana Rebecca Designs just launched and its too spectacular to leave out of this trend piece. According to the designer, “The Poppy Rae Pebble Initial Necklace is the ultimate way to proudly flaunt the initial of your choice. The removable initial is our largest initial charm, a bold alternative to our smaller, dainty initial charms. As a homage to an important person in your life, or as a celebration of self, the Poppy Rae Large Pebble Initial Necklace lets you select your favorite letter for a custom gold necklace with initial charm. Each of these initial gold charms is crafted from our signature gold pebbles for a textured look that truly stands out.”

 

Jane Taylor

As with all of Jane Taylor‘s work, the letters included in the brand’s Alphabet Soup collection express a sense of joy and whimsicality. Created with a variety of colored gemstones, the pieces offer bold pops of color and silhouettes that contain a playful fluidity. Jane Taylor’s jewelry has traditionally encouraged self-expression through adornment, and the new letters serve to level up her commitment to the concept that the best way to say it (whatever “it” is) is through precious metals and gemstones.

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