But perhaps the most often repeated phrase, that comes up in full chorus every year as flowers bloom in fashion and jewelry, is “Florals? For Spring? Groundbreaking.” Meryl delivers the cutting review to her accessories editor during a run-through.

If that editor was me and the time was now, my rebuttal would begin, “These flowers actually are groundbreaking.” A handful of talented COUTURE designers—BEA BONGIASCA, CHRISTINA ALEXIOU, MIKE JOSEPH and SILVIA FURMANOVICH—have created jewels inspired by rare blooms or made their own species. Several use colorful and unexpected materials such as enamel, titanium and wood. Find out what I mean below.

Bea Bongiasca

There are a lot of great designers who talk about their love of color, but I have never seen such total commitment to a strong palette as Bea Bongiasca. T Magazine from The New York Times just featured the designer’s home in Milan. The strong hues in Bea’s collection are all over her apartment, like the acid green living room with a red conversation pit. She says the colors are intended to convey a sense of “happiness” and they do.

Her flower jewels deliver the same joy. Simple outlines of blossoms form hoops and ear cuffs composed of silver and covered in her palette of enamels. These florals capture the moment and conjure up a fantastical Never Neverland.

Christina Alexiou

Greek designer Christina Alexiou focuses on time honored motifs in her collection and makes them her own. Ancient Greek myths are a central theme, so are hearts and flowers. While flowers can be found in jewels dating back to the ancients, like the mythical gods depicted in Christina’s work, her golden blooms capture a very different era. They have more of a free-spirited 1960s vibe.

She has long gold necklaces and bracelets with open flower motifs that are giving luxurious daisy chain vibes. The designer’s flat flower pendant earrings have little diamonds around the open centers that look like dew drops in the sun. Her gold Flora earrings and necklaces feature pink tourmalines in gold granulated bezels. If these jewels had a scent you just know it would be as fresh as a field of wild flowers.

Mike Joseph

Innovation might as well be Mike Joseph’s middle name. The master craftsman’s artistic soul comes through clearly in his work. The flowers in Mike’s Petali collection are made of titanium. The lightweight yet strong material allows him to create oversized pieces that are easy to wear. He can also manipulate the color of the material to any shade he wants his flowers to be.

Mike takes the blooms and places them all over giant gold bracelets or earrings that drip in vine-like mesh. He has flowers sprout from asymmetrical branch bracelets. Not above smaller statements, he also places his titanium flowers singly on gold chain chokers and bracelets like mini corsages.

Silvia Furmanovich

No one does research like Silvia Furmanovich. The designer doesn’t just look at pictures of faraway lands for inspiration or have her craftsman echo the techniques refined by others. She goes to these places and works with the locals. Another way she pays tribute to places she visits is through the motifs in her work.

Silvia’s exotic florals are a constant from her globetrotting. She often makes them in marquetry, one of the signatures of her iconoclastic collection. And she usually sets them with stunning gems. All the elements add up to a very original bouquet.

Marion Fasel

Founder and Editorial Director of The Adventurine, Marion Fasel is an esteemed jewelry expert and trend forecaster. Her eleventh book, The History of Diamond Engagement Ring: A True Romance was just released. Marion regularly speaks on jewelry history and contemporary trends.