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December 20, 2021

Trend Report: Love Letters

I
know what you are thinking. Initial jewels have been around for a while. And you are right. But the latest crop of bejeweled letters from COUTURE designers are different and definitely worthy of our attention.

How are they different? Well, now that we are many chapters into the personalization trend people have gotten very picky and quite sophisticated about what they want their jewels to look like. They want conversation pieces. They want unique work that expresses their individuality.

The alphabets seen here by Anita Ko, Brent Neale, Harwell Godfrey, Mateo and Milamore are much more than basic ABCs. Find out the story behind the styles below.

MILAMORE Diamond Braille Puzzle Piece Charms

Layers of details make the Milamore Diamond Braille Puzzle Piece Charms something special. Designer George Root put Roman font letters in the center of the puzzle pieces that were inspired by his childhood love of the game. Beneath each English letter is a Braille letter in rose-cut diamonds.

While growing up in Japan, George learned Braille which is a requirement in school. “I became very fascinated by Braille and the idea of ‘seeing’ with the touch of your fingertips,” explains George. “Visually I find Braille looks like a combination of the matrix and ancient Egyptian letters.”

The final flourish on Milamore’s Diamond Braille Puzzle Pieces is a blank back that can be engraved with a personal message. All of the charms come on lobster claw clasps so they can be added to any chain necklace or bracelet.

HARWELL GODFREY Knife Edge Letter Medallions and Charms

“I fell in love with typography over the course of the 15 years when I was an advertising art and creative director,” explains designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey. “For my jewelry designs, I was interested in how to create a three-dimensional type.”

The designer achieved the sensational sculptural results with her Knife Edge Letter Medallions and Charms. Diamonds punctuate her meticulously sculpted Charms and a stripe of enamel adds a splash of color. The Medallions are mini-masterworks with gems accenting the letter set on a round hardstone in a gold pendant with fabulous design flourishes.

MATEO Initials

Sometimes the best ideas are actually happy accidents. Such was the case for designer Matthew “Mateo” Harris when he created his Initial collection. Mateo had originally planned on the gems in his Initial rings to have opaque stones, but his workshop mixed things up and used rock crystal. The designer immediately saw the benefit of the clear stone, added diamonds to the letters and the collection was born.

Mateo’s letters, which come in rings, pendant necklaces and cord bracelets, have become a favorite with luminaries and accessories editors. A couple of the most prominent placements are poet Amanda Gorman who wore an A ring when she did a reading before the Super Bowl and Oscar nominated actress Andra Day who looked sensational in two Mateo A Initial rings on the June cover of InStyle.

“My goal is always to create personal jewelry,” explains Mateo. “Pieces that will stand the test of time and will become today’s modern heirlooms. Our initial collection is a testament to that, hence it’s a part of our core collection.” 

BRENT NEALE Bubble Collection  

Anyone who follows Brent Neale on Instagram knows so much of what she makes with her master craftsmen in New York City are custom creations. The majority are spins off of her core collection, but on occasion she does something totally unique. It was just such a unique piece that inspired her charming Bubble Collection of letter earrings and pendants as well as custom bracelets with personalized sayings.

After making jewels a client requested with letters for her daughters Brent decided to expand on the idea. “I sketched the entire alphabet by hand and was inspired by the bubble letters from my youth,” explains Brent. “In addition, I’ve incorporated stones in each one because color and stones have become a signature of our brand.”

 

Anita Ko Initials

An elegant cursive font gives Anita Ko’s diamond and gold initials a nice sense of movement. Sweet stud earrings are made to be stacked in multiple piercings with other jewels or more initials. Letters are set on their sides in sexy wispy-light chain necklaces and bracelets. When they are worn, the letters almost appear as though they are floating on the skin.

While the jewels are delicate, they are finely crafted. The letters on the necklaces have diamonds on both sides, so if they flip over the sparkle continues to shine. It is the kind of detail that takes a nice piece to the level of beloved treasure.

The Founder and Editorial director of the beloved online fine jewelry magazine The Adventurine.com, Marion Fasel is as well known for her trend forecasting skills as her comprehensive knowledge of jewelry history. Over her career, she has written nine books on jewelry. Most recently, Marion curated the critically acclaimed 2021 exhibition Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired By the Animal Kingdom at the American Museum of Natural History. 

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