
Pearls have gone through a sea change in how they are perceived since men started wearing them. The countless musicians who have flaunted simple strands, including A$AP Rocky, two of the Jonas Brothers and Pharrell, were part of their transition from prim accessories to power pieces. Fuel was added to the fire by fashion designer Marc Jacobs who has never taken off the Mikimoto strand he bought during the height of the pandemic.
And then there was the pearl necklace of Atlanta Braves outfielder Joc Pederson. The bejeweled baseball player caused a sensation during the World Series and single-handedly transformed sports writers into jewelry journalists. Why did he wear it? Pederson once said, “He just wanted to do something different.” Another time he hilariously proclaimed he wore the pearls because he was a “bad bitch.” In the past this would have been a shocking or “pearl clutch” type of statement, but not today.
The line between men’s and women’s jewelry hasn’t just been blurred, it’s been erased.

It was all a lot of good fun and paved the way for the public to take a fresh look at the marine gem—and realize how very stylish it has always been. It is a fact many COUTURE designers have long appreciated. A handful—Assael, Moksh, Sophie Bille Brahe and Ten Thousand Things—have made careers out of focusing on pearls in visionary ways.
Find out more about each below. While the models wearing some of these jewels are all women, I wouldn’t be surprised if gentlemen turned up in the looks. The line between men’s and women’s jewelry hasn’t just been blurred, it’s been erased.

Sophie Bille Brahe
There is a lyrical quality to Sophie Bille Brahe’s pearl jewelry. The Danish designer who is based in Copenhagen and making her COUTURE debut this year, sets different sizes of pearls in subtle pieces that demand attention. They draw your eye across the lines of larger to smaller pearls. Each has perfect proportions and a gentle sense of movement.

Moksh
Milan Tanvir Chokshi, the founder of Moksh jewelry based in Bombay, pays tribute to and reimagines the looks of 17th century Mughal jewelry. One of the key elements of the designs is seed pearls. The itsy-bitsy pearls infuse the pieces with texture and an ethereal quality. Milan puts them everywhere, on chandelier earrings, rings, and bracelets. It makes the collection immediately recognizable and something really special.

Assael
A pioneer in the pearl category, Assael developed markets for South Sea and Tahitian pearls during the second half of the 20th century. Today, the label continues to be an innovator with groundbreaking pearl designs produced in-house or through collaborations. South Sea Cultured Pearls set on white gold Hair Pins are one eye-catching creation. The Split Decision Ring with a South Sea and a Tahitian Pearl is a playful piece that can be worn on one finger or opened and spread out on two fingers. The Flex Bangle with Akoya Pearls made in collaboration with goldsmith Sean Gilson bends to slide on the wrist.

Ten Thousand Things
All kinds of pearls light up the collection of the beloved New York based label Ten Thousand Things designed and created on the bench by co-founders Ron Anderson and David Rees. Freshwater pearls, mother-of-pearl, Tahitian pearls, and American natural pearls can all be found in their designs. Set artistically, the pearls are woven on foxtail chains, pierced and strung on gold, set in chunky statement rings and suspended from pendant earrings.
“There is no surface like a pearl, and each pearl has its own unique character to be admired,” explains David. “More than any other material they remind us of the beauty and power of nature.”