On the intellectual side, scholars and master craftsmen collaborated with L’École, a jewelry school in Paris, to make a replica of the legendary Celtic Torque of Montans. They didn’t do the dupe of the 2,000-year-old design with the intent to deceive, of course. They did it to learn and practice the ancient manufacturing technique. An exhibition about it is being staged at the L’École museum from July 3 through September 21.

By definition torques are solid rings worn around the neck. Often they have openings in the front or back. Some are continuous circles.

The torque renaissance kicked into high gear at COUTURE earlier this month. Several designers including ENGELBERT, SILVIA FURMANOVICH, WALTERS FAITH, JADE RUZZO and JADE TRAU showed unique variations on the silhouette. See the looks and find out all about them below.

Engelbert

Engelbert, the over-100-year-old Swedish label based in Stockholm, has gone all in on modern torques. It had the boldest examples at Couture and possibly anywhere. The scale of the Legacy Knot torque is tremendous. A symbol of love, the design is, perhaps surprisingly, easy to wear. It is opened with hinges on the sides near the back.

Engelbert’s Infinity torque is like two torques melded together. It is an outfit maker to put it mildly. The motif is a variation on the infinity symbol, which represents unity, protection and eternity. It’s motto should be “Torques Forever.”

Silvia Furmanovich

Brazilian sensation, Silvia Furmanovich famously works with her own techniques and materials. Wood and marquetry have long been a focus. Within her personal genre, she also manages to be in tune with the moment, creating highly personal variations on the silhouettes of the season.

Silvia has torques that resemble branches with floral and fauna motifs. One features a flower growing from the center. Others have a butterfly perched on the side. Another style is punctuated by gems in a paisley-shaped that evoke the good vibes 1970s, when torques where trending.

Walters Faith

Designed by Mollie Good, the Walters Faith Collection is filled with classic styles that have been given a design twist. Band rings, chain-link bracelets and hoop earrings all get a little something-something extra.

When it comes to torques, Mollie has added a little bend to one side and flexibility at the back. There is a gold style and a couple covered in gems. They are designed so that two can be tidily layered. Putting on a couple of these is an extravagant choice to be sure. But once you see them together, it is easy to imagine all the places you could go wearing the coordinated duo.

Jade Ruzzo

Designer Jade Ruzzo specializes in understated, elegant creations. But this year at COUTURE, she ventured into statement pieces. Her Gloria necklace is the perfect example. The gold bib necklace would have fit right into Elizabeth Taylor’s wardrobe in the 1963 film Cleopatra.

Jade’s torque necklaces are another example. She has slender styles with an opening at the back made to suspend her giant gem pendants. Another very special torque has an angled opening in the front accented with three oval Paraíba tourmalines, the if you know, you know rarefied gem.

Jade Trau

Jade Trau is famous for her engagement rings and cool-girl diamond jewelry. Her torques fit right in with the looks her clients love. They would have been perfect for Dakota Johnson’s character in The Materialist.

The designer’s slender gold torques can be worn alone or paired with one of her large animal or talismanic motifs, such as the Hamsa. Jade also has torques studded with diamonds in an abstract floral pattern providing a romantic spark.

Marion Fasel is editor of The Adventurine on Substack and author of 11 books on jewelry including The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance (2024) and Beautiful Creatures: Jewelry Inspired by the Animal Kingdom (2021).