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January 30, 2025

Trend Report: So 80s

F
ashion folks have been talking about the return of 80s looks for a while now. And I have to admit that I’ve seen some things like the bright color blocking, shoulder pads, hair bows and even leg warmers. But I wasn’t entirely convinced that the “decade of decadence” would make a comeback in jewelry even though I knew some fans. I felt the look of those baubles was too bold and brash to ever return in a big way.

Header image features Suzanne Kalan

Like any good revival, people were styling the jewels with clothes that made it look fresh again.

Suzanne Kalan

Image courtesy of Retrouvaí

Well, I began to change my mind recently when jewelry style authority, Frank Everett of Sotheby’s told me 1980s designers, that did not sell well at auction just a few seasons ago, were inspiring bidding wars. Broken English’s Laura Freedman has been a pioneer with 80s. And assured me it was popular at her New York City and Brentwood based boutiques.

Image courtesy of TABAYER

Then I went to The Original Miami Beach Antique Show earlier this month and 1980s jewels were everywhere on offer in display cases. And in the aisles on some of the coolest jewelry designers and editors. Like any good revival, people were styling the jewels with clothes that made it look fresh again.

Image courtesy of Marina B

All of this brought the 1980s jewelry vibes into sharp focus in my mind and I realized several COUTURE designers were indeed working the big, bold and brash look. Some of the best include Marina B, Retrouvaí, Suzanne Kalan and Tabayer.

Image courtesy of Marina B

MARINA B

Launched in 1979, Marina B became one of the top labels during the 1980s. Designer Marina Bulgari, as in the famed Italian House Bulgari, broke away from the big family business to do her own thing. Her take on 80s styles captured the zeitgeist. It included bold gold pieces punctuated with diamonds, ginormous colorful gems and swaths of black cutting across jewels. Stylish women, from Sophia Loren to socialite Nan Kempner, popularized the look.

Image courtesy of Marina B

Under the creative direction of Guy Bedarida, the spirit of Marina B is kept alive and well today. Guy has revived collections and introduced new generations to the 40-something year old looks.

  • Image courtesy of Marina B

  • Image courtesy of Marina B

Image courtesy of TABAYER

TABAYER

The Tabayer collection made under the creative direction of Nigora Tokhtabayeva is audacious. Like designs from the 1980s and that era’s sister decade, the 1940s, the motifs of the jewels resemble mechanical parts.

Image courtesy of TABAYER

Round tubes of gold dotted and defined by colorful gems wrap around the throat forming sensational necklaces. An open spring that looks like a Slinky makes up the top motif of a ring. Other rings feature shiny gold discs that beam with light from the top of the hand. All of them feel as empowered as the women that began to step into the boardroom in the 80s in their power suits to take charge.

  • Image courtesy of TABAYER

  • Image courtesy of TABAYER

Image courtesy of Retrouvaí

RETROUVAÍ

There was a whimsy to the 1980s that could be found not only in the bright colors and dramatic shapes of fashion, but also in the work of the era’s pop artists, such as Jeff Koons and Keith Harring. Retrouvaí designer Kristy Stone brings a similar irreverence to her collection.

Image courtesy of Retrouvaí

Gold jewelry is blown up with curves like balloons. Gold hugs and kisses, X’s and O’s, in bracelets and earrings are covered with polka dots composed of black onyx, turquoise and lapis. A domed ring with seemingly spontaneously placed dots feels like bubbles floating away and exemplifies the joy of the jewelry.

  • Image courtesy of Retrouvaí

  • Image courtesy of Retrouvaí

Image courtesy of Suzanne Kalan

SUZANNE KALAN

The sense of abundance and glory of gold in 1980s jewelry is reflected in Suzanne Kalan’s striking collection. Choker-length necklaces and chunky rings add to the go-go vibes.

Image courtesy of Suzanne Kalan

Suzanne makes the look her own with her signature motif, largely inspired by the shape of baguette-cut diamonds. The designer takes the rectangular shape and lays it down like crooked bricks, adding texture to the jewels. She zigs and zags the small parts across the pieces to make them much more than everyday essentials. It’s a look-at-me result that’s oh-so-80s in the very best way.

Image courtesy Suzanne Kalan

Image courtesy of Marina B

Founder and Editorial Director of The Adventurine online fine jewelry magazine, Marion Fasel is an esteemed jewelry expert and trend forecaster. Her eleventh book, The History of Diamond Engagement Ring: A True Romance was just released. Marion regularly speaks on jewelry history and contemporary trends.

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