The judges cast their preliminary votes independently, and on Saturday morning, they gather together to give a thorough review to the top contenders in each category. Often times, the judges call in additional pieces that didn’t initially make it to the room so they can make an appeal on behalf of a particular piece, sometimes swaying the group to concede to their point-of-view. The discussion is animated and passionate, and always well mannered and civil.

Best in Diamonds Below $40,000 Retail:

The booklets the judges use as a reference point is laid out in the same order as the display cases in the Design Awards Hallway, so that was the order the judges followed for their discussion. This year the panel began by reviewing Best in Diamonds below $40,000 retail. While they were enamored with the heft and substantiveness of newcomer AMPM’s cuff bracelet, and they loved the versatility of the multi-tiered bracelet of another debuting brand, Recarlo, as soon as one of the judges put on Bibi van der Velden’s singular diamond earring, they knew they had their winner.

The judges remarked on the movement of the piece, and the gracefulness of its lines, which is exactly what the designer had intended, “The Queen B Diamond Alligator has a special place in my heart, not only because she’s bold and full of character but because she marks a new chapter for me,” Bibi told us. “This is the first time I’ve created a diamond-focused collection, and it began, as always, with a sketch – fluid and instinctive. From that first line came a piece sculpted with intention, articulated for movement, and set to catch the light. Every detail carries symbolism and strength. To see her recognized at COUTURE is both an honor and a deeply meaningful milestone in my journey as a designer.”

Colored Gemstones Above $40,000 Retail:

Colored Gemstones Above $40,000 Retail was particularly competitive this year, and one in which all of the submissions eventually made it into the room for consideration. The judges loved the streamlined glamour of Sophia D’s geometrically patterned ruby and diamond earrings, and they were smitten by the quality of the emerald in Gyan Jaipur’s kite earrings, but the exquisite hand-crafted quality of Vanessa Fernandez’ chrysoberyl and diamond necklace won the group over, with Selim in particular extolling its many technical virtues.

“This piece was completely hand crafted and it’s a total one of a kind,” Vanessa enthused. “It is comprised of over 32 carats of custom cut pear shape Chrysoberyls, sourced and cut by Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems; I couldn’t be happier with the consistent intensity and polish of the stones.”

She went on to explain the nuances that captivated Selim, a jeweler and designer with over 30 years of experience. “25 individual settings in two styles all interlock in a cold connection, which literally means that the links are joined and functioning without the use of heat to attach. Each link is accented by a row of handset, pave, G-H, VVS1 round diamonds and each link has three prongs per pear shape. The hook and eye clasp is accented with diamonds and mimics the design seen throughout the piece. Observing the piece on its backside, you can also admire the way each line has a start and finish, lines don’t melt into one another, you can see how every coil and wrap begins and ends in one continuous unbroken line.”

Her first neckpiece, the winning design took over 120 hours to complete, it was crafted using Vanessa’s custom, 18k gold alloy, weighs over 150 grams, and has already been sold to a discerning collector.

Best in Bridal:

With six, strong entries, Best in Bridal was another hotly debated category. The judges were honestly impressed with each of the entries, and they spent the majority of the discussion determining what their ultimate selection says about the category as it relates to COUTURE. They were struck by the ingenuity of Rosario Navia’s spiral-inspired engagement ring, how the diamond floated above the design, and the workmanship in Sevan Biçakçi’s pearl enveloped ring was immediately noted and admired, yet they decided that if they were personally going to say “yes,” Mason & Book’s Slingshot Lasso ring had to be the winner.

“This ring is deeply personal,” designer Jamie Books shares with us. “It’s not just a redesign; it’s a reclamation. A symbol of transformation. It carries the weight of a journey that began with love, endured loss, and emerged stronger, bolder, and wholly mine.

“I first picked the diamond back in 2010. I still remember when I saw this particular stone—it stopped me in my tracks. Over the years, I’ve seen thousands of diamonds, but this one spoke to me. She was meant to be mine.

“Years later, after my life took a very different turn, the ring sat in a drawer. Though the marriage ended, the family I built from it remains my greatest strength. My children are my everything—my foundation and my constant inspiration. It felt like a shame to let this stone, which once meant so much, sit gathering dust.

“That’s when the design for the Slingshot ring came to me—rooted in a collection I launched in 2024, but this time more stripped down than the original setting. I wanted something that would let the diamond truly speak. Something solid. Substantial. A bold statement. What makes jewelry so powerful—it evolves with us. It holds memory and meaning, and resetting stones can reflect life’s turning points with integrity and beauty.”

Best in Pearls:

Pearls is a material that seem to come with a lot of preconceived notions; they represent purity and innocence, and they have a long-standing tradition as a classic staple. Each of the submissions in this year’s Best in Pearls category defied those expectations, while maintaining the solemnity with which they’ve historically been affiliated.

Though the judges were drawn to the unique take on a classic in Shihara’s pearl strand with moveable clasp, and they loved the functionality of Mattia Cielo’s flexible and sculptural rose gold bracelet, the joy and whimsicality evoked by Francesca Villa’s Lover’s Eye pendant won them over.

“In my Eyes On You necklace, I took a traditional jewelry form – that of the Lovers Eye – and gave it a contemporary twist using a rare vintage lenticular,” Francesca elaborates on her submission. “Antique Lovers Eye jewels are most often surrounded by a border of pearls – their rounded perfection thought to symbolize love itself. For this necklace I have created a border of white and pink pearls set with diamonds, citrine, iolite and orange sapphire. The wink of the eyes in this necklace as you move is a joyful and eye catching surprise.” 

Best in Colored Gemstones Below $40,000 Retail:

With 24 entries, Best in Colored Gemstones Below $40,000 Retail was another highly competitive category. While several of the submissions captivated their attention, ultimately, they were taken with Fullord’s clever apple ring, and the asymmetrical sophistication of Lisa Nik’s multi-colored earrings.

It was Harwell Godfrey’s Granny Squares bracelet that was the immediately unanimous winner. From just seeing it in the tray to testing its wearability to looping its craftsmanship and materials, the piece checked all of the boxes.

“This piece began as a deeply personal idea: a nostalgic wink to the crochet blankets that lived on every couch of my childhood,” Lauren Godfrey tells us. “I wanted to transform that cozy, homespun memory into something exquisite and enduring—a celebration of craftsmanship, color, and connection.

“Bringing it to life was no small feat. We sourced over 30 unique cabochon-cut gemstones, carefully balancing translucent, opaque, and opalescent textures. Each stone was chosen not just for its beauty, but for its harmony within the whole. I laid them out like a mosaic—no two colors repeating—to capture the perfectly imperfect magic of a handmade quilt. The layout was mapped, stone by stone, before it went to the setter.”

Best in Haute Couture:

Best in Haute Couture is always a hotly contested category! Not only is it typically among the most competitive, each unique panel of judges also has very strong opinions about what it should represent. As one of only a few people who are allowed in the room during the judging process each year, I can confirm the unpredictability of this category by pointing out that I’m always personally surprised by the submissions the judges deem worthy of serious consideration.

This year the panel opted for opulence in their selections. The Keshi pearl and needle-shaped baguette diamond earrings MOKSH submitted enchanted the judges, especially when Rachael modeled it, and the decadence of Kavant & Sharart’s breathtaking wave-inspired brooch featuring an exquisite, 31 carat Columbian emerald blew their hair back. Yet it was the Mediterranea Nautilus necklace from CHANTECLER CAPRI that truly won them over. The technical acumen inherent in its engineering coupled with its breathtaking scale embodied what this year’s panel of judges thought of as Haute Couture.

“Fourteen iridescent Nautilus shells emerge like jewels among vibrant titanium branches,” explains the brand’s Creative Director, Maria Elena Aprea. “This wise and refined composition—an allegorical and precious blend of white enamel and diamonds—captures the light, shadows, and ethereal aura of the winter sea. Hellenic myth intertwines with the photographic visions of Ansel Adams, Moholy-Nagy, and Paul Strand, evoking the rare and exotic shells once treasured in the Wunderkammer of Baroque princes.”

Best in Below $10,000 Retail:

When we introduced our newest category, Best in Below $10,000 Retail, a few years ago, it was a boon for any designer working on a smaller scale, allowing more price accessible pieces to take centerstage. Submissions by two newcomers to COUTURE, By Pariah and White Space, both got nods, with the judges remarking on how substantive their pieces looked and felt within the price points. The Wise Owl double-sided locket/pendant by Three Stories charmed the judges with both its form and functionality.

“The under 10K retail category is a perfect fit for Three Stories,” Emily Cohen, one of the brand’s founders, told us. “We’ve always focused on creating beautiful, wearable pieces of art at accessible price points, and the majority of our pieces fall naturally into this category.

“The Wise Owl locket pendant holds special meaning for us. We hand-selected each stone to achieve the perfect ombré effect in the feathers, and we discovered this beautiful Australian Opal at the Tucson gem show that perfectly represents our midnight owl. We love incorporating thoughtful details, so the owl’s belly rotates to reveal a hidden locket inscribed with ‘wisdom’—a fitting tribute to the owl’s symbolic connection to wisdom and mystery.

“Winning this award is so special to us. We’re only four years old, and the way this community has embraced our line has been truly humbling. We are forever grateful.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​”