The judges cast their preliminary votes independently, and on Saturday morning, they gather together to give a thorough review to the top contenders in each category. Often times, the judges call in additional pieces that didn’t initially make it to the room so they can make an appeal on behalf of a particular piece, sometimes swaying the group to concede to their point-of-view. The discussion is animated and passionate, and always well mannered and civil.

Best in Diamonds Below $40,000 Retail:

The booklets the judges use as a reference point is laid out in the same order as the display cases in the Design Awards Hallway, so that was the order the judges followed for their discussion. This year the panel began by reviewing Best in Diamonds below $40,000 retail. While they were enamored with the heft and substantiveness of newcomer AMPM’s cuff bracelet, and they loved the versatility of the multi-tiered bracelet of another debuting brand, Recarlo, as soon as one of the judges put on Bibi van der Velden’s singular diamond earring, they knew they had their winner.

The judges remarked on the movement of the piece, and the gracefulness of its lines, which is exactly what the designer had intended, “The Queen B Diamond Alligator has a special place in my heart, not only because she’s bold and full of character but because she marks a new chapter for me,” Bibi told us. “This is the first time I’ve created a diamond-focused collection, and it began, as always, with a sketch – fluid and instinctive. From that first line came a piece sculpted with intention, articulated for movement, and set to catch the light. Every detail carries symbolism and strength. To see her recognized at COUTURE is both an honor and a deeply meaningful milestone in my journey as a designer.”

Colored Gemstones Above $40,000 Retail:

Colored Gemstones Above $40,000 Retail was particularly competitive this year, and one in which all of the submissions eventually made it into the room for consideration. The judges loved the streamlined glamour of Sophia D’s geometrically patterned ruby and diamond earrings, and they were smitten by the quality of the emerald in Gyan Jaipur’s kite earrings, but the exquisite hand-crafted quality of Vanessa Fernandez’ chrysoberyl and diamond necklace won the group over, with Selim in particular extolling its many technical virtues.

“This piece was completely hand crafted and it’s a total one of a kind,” Vanessa enthused. “It is comprised of over 32 carats of custom cut pear shape Chrysoberyls, sourced and cut by Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems; I couldn’t be happier with the consistent intensity and polish of the stones.”

She went on to explain the nuances that captivated Selim, a jeweler and designer with over 30 years of experience. “25 individual settings in two styles all interlock in a cold connection, which literally means that the links are joined and functioning without the use of heat to attach. Each link is accented by a row of handset, pave, G-H, VVS1 round diamonds and each link has three prongs per pear shape. The hook and eye clasp is accented with diamonds and mimics the design seen throughout the piece. Observing the piece on its backside, you can also admire the way each line has a start and finish, lines don’t melt into one another, you can see how every coil and wrap begins and ends in one continuous unbroken line.”

Her first neckpiece, the winning design took over 120 hours to complete, it was crafted using Vanessa’s custom, 18k gold alloy, weighs over 150 grams, and has already been sold to a discerning collector.

Best in Bridal:

With six, strong entries, Best in Bridal was another hotly debated category. The judges were honestly impressed with each of the entries, and they spent the majority of the discussion determining what their ultimate selection says about the category as it relates to COUTURE. They were struck by the ingenuity of Rosario Navia’s spiral-inspired engagement ring, how the diamond floated above the design, and the workmanship in Sevan Biçakçi’s pearl enveloped ring was immediately noted and admired, yet they decided that if they were personally going to say “yes,” Mason & Book’s Slingshot Lasso ring had to be the winner.

“This ring is deeply personal,” designer Jamie Books shares with us. “It’s not just a redesign; it’s a reclamation. A symbol of transformation. It carries the weight of a journey that began with love, endured loss, and emerged stronger, bolder, and wholly mine.

“I first picked the diamond back in 2010. I still remember when I saw this particular stone—it stopped me in my tracks. Over the years, I’ve seen thousands of diamonds, but this one spoke to me. She was meant to be mine.

“Years later, after my life took a very different turn, the ring sat in a drawer. Though the marriage ended, the family I built from it remains my greatest strength. My children are my everything—my foundation and my constant inspiration. It felt like a shame to let this stone, which once meant so much, sit gathering dust.

“That’s when the design for the Slingshot ring came to me—rooted in a collection I launched in 2024, but this time more stripped down than the original setting. I wanted something that would let the diamond truly speak. Something solid. Substantial. A bold statement. What makes jewelry so powerful—it evolves with us. It holds memory and meaning, and resetting stones can reflect life’s turning points with integrity and beauty.”

Best in Pearls:

Pearls is a material that seem to come with a lot of preconceived notions; they represent purity and innocence, and they have a long-standing tradition as a classic staple. Each of the submissions in this year’s Best in Pearls category defied those expectations, while maintaining the solemnity with which they’ve historically been affiliated.

Though the judges were drawn to the unique take on a classic in Shihara’s pearl strand with moveable clasp, and they loved the functionality of Mattia Cielo’s flexible and sculptural rose gold bracelet, the joy and whimsicality evoked by Francesca Villa’s Lover’s Eye pendant won them over.

“In my Eyes On You necklace, I took a traditional jewelry form – that of the Lovers Eye – and gave it a contemporary twist using a rare vintage lenticular,” Francesca elaborates on her submission. “Antique Lovers Eye jewels are most often surrounded by a border of pearls – their rounded perfection thought to symbolize love itself. For this necklace I have created a border of white and pink pearls set with diamonds, citrine, iolite and orange sapphire. The wink of the eyes in this necklace as you move is a joyful and eye catching surprise.” 

Best in Colored Gemstones Below $40,000 Retail:

With 24 entries, Best in Colored Gemstones Below $40,000 Retail was another highly competitive category. While several of the submissions captivated their attention, ultimately, they were taken with Fullord’s clever apple ring, and the asymmetrical sophistication of Lisa Nik’s multi-colored earrings.

It was Harwell Godfrey’s Granny Squares bracelet that was the immediately unanimous winner. From just seeing it in the tray to testing its wearability to looping its craftsmanship and materials, the piece checked all of the boxes.

“This piece began as a deeply personal idea: a nostalgic wink to the crochet blankets that lived on every couch of my childhood,” Lauren Godfrey tells us. “I wanted to transform that cozy, homespun memory into something exquisite and enduring—a celebration of craftsmanship, color, and connection.

“Bringing it to life was no small feat. We sourced over 30 unique cabochon-cut gemstones, carefully balancing translucent, opaque, and opalescent textures. Each stone was chosen not just for its beauty, but for its harmony within the whole. I laid them out like a mosaic—no two colors repeating—to capture the perfectly imperfect magic of a handmade quilt. The layout was mapped, stone by stone, before it went to the setter.”

Best in Haute Couture:

Best in Haute Couture is always a hotly contested category! Not only is it typically among the most competitive, each unique panel of judges also has very strong opinions about what it should represent. As one of only a few people who are allowed in the room during the judging process each year, I can confirm the unpredictability of this category by pointing out that I’m always personally surprised by the submissions the judges deem worthy of serious consideration.

This year the panel opted for opulence in their selections. The Keshi pearl and needle-shaped baguette diamond earrings MOKSH submitted enchanted the judges, especially when Rachael modeled it, and the decadence of Kavant & Sharart’s breathtaking wave-inspired brooch featuring an exquisite, 31 carat Columbian emerald blew their hair back. Yet it was the Mediterranea Nautilus necklace from CHANTECLER CAPRI that truly won them over. The technical acumen inherent in its engineering coupled with its breathtaking scale embodied what this year’s panel of judges thought of as Haute Couture.

“Fourteen iridescent Nautilus shells emerge like jewels among vibrant titanium branches,” explains the brand’s Creative Director, Maria Elena Aprea. “This wise and refined composition—an allegorical and precious blend of white enamel and diamonds—captures the light, shadows, and ethereal aura of the winter sea. Hellenic myth intertwines with the photographic visions of Ansel Adams, Moholy-Nagy, and Paul Strand, evoking the rare and exotic shells once treasured in the Wunderkammer of Baroque princes.”

Best in Below $10,000 Retail:

When we introduced our newest category, Best in Below $10,000 Retail, a few years ago, it was a boon for any designer working on a smaller scale, allowing more price accessible pieces to take centerstage. Submissions by two newcomers to COUTURE, By Pariah and White Space, both got nods, with the judges remarking on how substantive their pieces looked and felt within the price points. The Wise Owl double-sided locket/pendant by Three Stories charmed the judges with both its form and functionality.

“The under 10K retail category is a perfect fit for Three Stories,” Emily Cohen, one of the brand’s founders, told us. “We’ve always focused on creating beautiful, wearable pieces of art at accessible price points, and the majority of our pieces fall naturally into this category.

“The Wise Owl locket pendant holds special meaning for us. We hand-selected each stone to achieve the perfect ombré effect in the feathers, and we discovered this beautiful Australian Opal at the Tucson gem show that perfectly represents our midnight owl. We love incorporating thoughtful details, so the owl’s belly rotates to reveal a hidden locket inscribed with ‘wisdom’—a fitting tribute to the owl’s symbolic connection to wisdom and mystery.

“Winning this award is so special to us. We’re only four years old, and the way this community has embraced our line has been truly humbling. We are forever grateful.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​”

Best in Diamonds Above $40,000 Retail:

The Best in Diamonds Above $40,000 Retail category has to deliver in terms of quality of materials, beauty of design, and volume, and from that perspective, all of the submissions this year fit the bill. The white gold and diamond cuff from Mariani and the white gold and diamond Wave collar necklace from Walters Faith both stood out for being beautiful, quality designs worthy of recognition. But it was Busatti 1947’s floral brooch in black titanium featuring a 4.48ct oval yellow diamond that stopped them in their tracks. Impressed with the complexity of the design, the delicate craftsmanship in the details and the materials used, it was the clear front runner.

“We wanted a flower that would be a tribute to nature, yet at the same time reflect our vision of the jewel: sophisticated, essential, pure,” says the brand’s Creative Director, Lalla Busatti. “After an extensive search, we found the perfect inspiration in a rare and mysterious creation — the black orchid. From there, Vegas was born: a sculptural brooch that brings together nature and high jewelry with the utmost precision.

“The chosen material is Ti-Black, a deep, absolute black titanium that allows for unexpected lightness and optical effects, impossible to achieve with traditional metals. The flower’s veins, as intricate and delicate as in nature, are recreated using white gold and hand-set white diamonds, producing a vibrant and realistic texture.

“At the heart of the flower, nestled within a delicate satin-finished rose quartz bud, lies an exceptional gemstone: a Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond of over four carats, chosen for its radiant beauty and perfect chromatic contrast with the black titanium.

“Creating a piece like Vegas takes dozens of hours and the skill of expert hands — artisans trained not only in traditional goldsmithing, but also in the precise use of advanced technologies. With alternative materials like those we choose to work with, the margin for error must be near zero. Each petal is entirely hand-engraved, resulting in a tactile and visual effect that makes the flower feel remarkably lifelike.”

Best in Gold:

Anyone who expressed concerned that the skyrocketing price of gold was going to tamper the creative output of our designers need only look at the stunning submissions in this year’s Best in Gold category. The lavish use of the precious metal in all of the submissions would have anyone thinking gold was literally growing on trees!

With 32 entries, it’s a wonder the judges aren’t still deliberating! Ultimately, their selection of their three favorites showcased a leaning towards narrative pieces, with Garuda Birds’ wings and their power to stop the spinning of the cosmos impeccably executed in Castro Smith’s signature style, and Alice Herald’s Light my Fire pinky ring inspired by the titan god Prometheus’ gift of fire to humans.

As it turns out, the winning Lunar Rain Moon Cat locket has layers of meaning, “This piece was inspired by Bastet, the ancient Egyptian goddess of the moon,” designer Melissa Chen explains. “She takes on the form of a cat and is also the goddess of protection, pleasure and good health. This is the official story behind the piece that we’ve been sharing. However, it was also inspired by Miso, my talkative Siamese cat, who is my constant companion. The design has his blue eyes. I used to be a dog person, but then I got Miso and now I’m a cat person too. The piece reflects my love for my cat.”

Best in Platinum:

The Best in Platinum category has been steadily growing in recent years, with COUTURE designers increasingly showcasing the metal’s complex capabilities in truly innovative designs. This year, the judges were immediately carefully examined all of the submissions, deciding that the contrast of platinum and black, matte ceramic in the collar necklace submitted by Roberto Demeglio best highlighted the metal, and the technical ingenuity and visual effects in newcomer PlatAfrica’s Resonance cuff bracelet by designer Ronel Jordaan awed them.

It was the cube diamond bracelet submitted by debuting brand r kheni, however, that impressed the most with the ways in which it pushes the boundaries of platinum’s capabilities. Noting that it took five to six months to conceptualize, experiment and source the perfect diamonds for the piece, and that the process of constructing it took two master craftspeople an entire month to complete, the piece also reflects the designer’s many interests, as well as his intellectual approach to the design process. “The Diamond Cube bracelet has the mood of postmodern furniture made in aluminum that evokes a very subtle feeling,” Ravi Kheni explains. “The cubes are inspiring, and to make them 3 dimensional with rose cut diamonds on all sides lets the light pass beautifully. The whole cube system is not fully closed, and I carved out small, stylized triangles on all sides to keep the moisture clear from inside, it also makes the piece easy to clean.

“The use of platinum supports the whole system; making this in gold would not do. There is a very little metal in between the diamonds that suits the strength of platinum, and the ways in which technical elements are synchronized with beautiful details excites me.”

Best in Innovative:

At 34 submissions, Best in Innovative was our most competitive category, and the discussions and deliberation that went into deciding the top three was the most animated. These pieces all do something, yet the exact ways in which they are deemed innovative are not always evident, so it’s often an awe-filled discovery among the group.

While they enjoyed the pieces that spun and transformed, it was the cool factor of the original, often-copied-never-replicated design of Bijules’ Nail ring, and the zeitgeist appeal of House of Glik by Moritz Glik’s brass, wood and diamond cannabis grinder that truly captured their attention. Grouped with the subtlety of YUTAI’s Fused Gems, the judges seemed to convey that to them, innovative did not need to be outspoken.

“One example of our approach to innovation is the introduction of Fused Gems—a new technique where two or more gemstones are precisely cut and seamlessly combined into a single stone,” designer Yuta Ishihara explains of his winning piece. “This method redefines the conventional idea of a solitaire gemstone, allowing for limitless creative expressions, such as striped patterns or quartered compositions. It opens up new possibilities in both aesthetic and conceptual design.”

Best in Debuting:

Best in Debuting is always the final decision the judges have to make. They take into account the entries of all debuting brands in all categories, so they’re really looking at the most exceptional design by any standard, which renders this decision the most difficult. Pieces are sent back to the cases, then recalled into the room, opinions are flying, and the discourse is animated.

The By Pariah Pebble cocktail ring carved from moss agate was a finalist in Best Under $10,000 Retail, and the judges all agreed that its sculptural appeal deserved another nod. Circa 1700 was on the cusp of being one of the finalists in its chosen category, Best in Innovative, so the judges were relieved to have the opportunity to give the working Decision Maker pendant much deserved recognition. While ZAHN-Z’s 18k gold Zaha ring was heavily considered in Best in Bridal, it ultimately didn’t conform to the statement they were making about the category. However, just seen in the context of a beautiful piece of jewelry, the judges marveled that it was beautifully conceived and crafted, noting the uniqueness of its silhouette, and ultimately deeming it worthy of top Best in Debuting honors.

“As a former architect, l’ve long been inspired by the legendary Zaha Hadid. Her bold, fluid forms shaped my design eye during my architectural years, and when I created ZAHN-Z, I knew I wanted that same sense of movement and sculptural elegance to become part of the brand’s DNA,” explains ZAHN-Z designer, Hiba Husayni. “But there’s a hidden layer, a deeper story that connects back to my roots. I was born and raised in Syria, where architecture tells a different kind of story. Unlike European architecture, which often aims to impress from the outside, Syrian architecture is humble in its façade. It welcomes you with modesty, leading you through a quiet, unassuming hallway, until it opens up to something magical: a breathtaking interior, a hidden courtyard-your own private paradise, tucked away from the noise of the outside world.”

Best in Editors’ Choice:

Best in Editors’ Choice is voted on by attending media, who are challenged to cast a vote for their top three pieces among all of the submissions on display. While it may be hard to imagine, there always is some consensus. This year, several editors voted for Carolina Neves’ cheerful, multi-colored gemstone necklace, and others more for r kheni’s winning platinum, Diamond Cube bracelet, but the clear winner went to Robinson Pelham’s chunky link necklace with diamond claps.

According to Vanessa Chilton, the brand’s Creative Director:, “Identity was born 10 years ago this year. The Diamond pear shaped Pommel clasp is a clever addition; a clasp which takes the front seat for a change.  To respond to the value and sustainability of gold we advocate: Change the Clasp, Change the Look, Keep the Chain, Sustain.”