Yet the Queen wasn’t exactly a jewelry influencer. Don’t get me wrong, she clearly showed people how jewelry lights up an outfit and makes a statement. But her classic pearls and brooches were a bit traditional to be firing up a lot of trends for women. I realize men picked up on both these styles, and it is quite possible the queen was a source of inspiration, but I can’t say with certainty that’s where the gentlemen were getting their ideas.

Anyway, I was thinking about regal jewelry style when I recently tuned into Netflix’s “The Empress,” a series based on the fascinating life of the 19^th century Empress Elisabeth of Austria. While the accuracy of the jewels in the German show are uneven, it got me to thinking about how jewels from the 19^th century in Europe are something that have lingered in terms of popularity for well-over 100 years.

The range of wearable and imaginative styles, which are loaded with details and individuality, perpetually inspire any number of COUTURE designers. Find out how ARMAN SARKISYAN, ILIAS LALAoUNIS, JENNA BLAKE and SINGLE STONE find new ideas in the old looks

Arman Sarkisyan

Designer ARMAN SARKISYAN lives, works and crafts his jewelry in Los Angeles, but his designs spiritually belong in another time and place.

“Growing up in Armenia, I was surrounded by an environment ripe with history,” explains the designer. “This was not only in terms of the country’s history and architecture, but also being with my father, who was trained in old world jewelry making techniques and eventually passed his craft onto me.”

All of Arman’s dreamy designs have the patina of yesteryear that transform them into something that looks like it could have come straight out of Empress Elisabeth’s jewel box.

LALAoUNIS

Several historical styles returned to the fashion foreground throughout the 19^th century. Ancient Greek jewelry that was being discovered in archeological digs was part of a genre called Archeological Revival.

The style of the ancients is something that flows in the veins of the designers at ILIAS LALAoUNIS. At COUTURE this year it was a highlight to see the Greek jeweler’s collection that included a tiara.

“The jewels were inspired by the Spring fresco on the Island of Santorini,” explains Demetra Lalaounis. “I had the opportunity to visit it during the course of the pandemic and found the work featuring lilies and birds so inspirational.”

Jenna Blake

A vintage jewelry collector as well as a designer, JENNA BLAKE is passionate about all the facets of nineteenth century Victorian style.

“There is a romanticism to the jewelry,” says Jenna. “I love the artisanal work found in the designs and the symbolism which infuses pieces with an extra layer of meaning.’

Jenna’s love of old-world style comes across clearly in her joyful jewelry. Naturally she adds a spin to the looks. One of her newest additions to the collection is a play on the antique concept of acrostic jewels where the first letter of each gem represents a word and is set on an ID style gold bracelet. They are cleverly called the Morse Code jewels.

Single Stone

“The 19^th century provides us with such inspiration in jewelry,” says Corina Madilian who co-founded Single Stone with her husband Ari Madilian. “I love the use of milgrain, filigree, hand engraving, oxidized metals and naturalistic, symbolic elements.”

All the designs at Single Stone have elements Corina and Ari admire in work from the past. They also take their interest in the 19^th century into the gemstones they use in the jewels. All the diamonds in Single Stone jewels are antique stones.

The way diamonds were cut at the time adds an authenticity to the historical tributes and a lot of character to the work. It’s these layers that make 19^th century style an eternal source of inspiration for designers.