C
ountless jewelry styles of today can be linked to the distant past. Gold hoops or pearl strands are a couple of eternal ideas that can be traced back for eons. There are also contemporary concepts with deep roots in history, such as jewelry with words. The ancient Greeks and Renaissance goldsmiths were among the many who put words on jewels.
The ancient Greeks and Renaissance goldsmiths were among the many who put words on jewels.
Christina Alexiou
So how does this old concept become relevant again and again? A lot depends on a designer’s interpretation. I don’t mean the language, but for lack of a better word, the vibe or the relevance of the sentiment or the new spin on the meaning of a word.
When I saw CHRISTINA ALEXIOU’s Mantra collection at COUTURE, I immediately thought jewelry with words was being reinvented yet again. And the name of her collection, well, I loved it so much that I asked if I could lift it for this story. Other COUTURE designers who are saying interesting things on their jewels include MARIE LICTENBERG, RETROUVAÍ and VENYX.
Christina Alexiou
Athens native Christina Alexiou always brings ancient Greek ideas into her cool jewels. Gold rings, for example, feature gods and figures from antiquity like the winged horse Pegasus. A mythical sense of wonder and perfect proportions make the designs feel of the moment.
For her Mantra collection, Christina applied the kind of ancient gold lettering found on signs all over Greece to gold plaques that are tied around the wrist with a velvet ribbon.
It was actually the word “Mother” on one of the plaques that struck me as fresh. Something about the way it was designed made me think about how Millennials and Gen Z apply the word “mother” to the goddesses of our time, like Beyoncé and Taylor Swift. Other terms in Mantra include “Muse” and the acronym “OOOF,” which means “out of office forever,” and is intended for the newly retired.
Marie Lichtenberg
There are so many words and phrases on Parisian designer Marie Lichtenberg’s collections it would be accurate to describe her as one of the most prolific designers of her generation. Marie’s most well-known creations are the horizontal six-sided gold lockets which are often decorated with phrases like “Every little thing gonna be alright.” It’s not unusual at all for one jewelry-loving editor and writer I know to be wearing three examples of Marie’s lockets at once.
Marie’s latest story-telling designs include bracelets. One says “God’s Favorite.” When I looked at the jewel with Marie, her explanation of the declaration was, “Who’s to say you are not?” The Italian saying for everything passes, “Tutto passa,” is emblazoned in diamonds across one jewel. I adore the understatement in diamonds of “So far so good” on another bracelet.
Marie has also made a couple of pendants with French expressions and universal motifs. There is “Bonne chance” with a horseshoe and “Bon voyage” with a couple of palm trees.
Retrouvaí
The Los Angeles based founder and designer of Retrouvaí, Kirsty Stone, has long used motifs in her jewelry that express clear sentiments. One of her most delightful designs is a flying pig signet ring. She also has signets decorated with a unicorn, an owl and a lion. These animals have such well-known meanings a child could interpret the symbolism of the designs.
At COUTURE, Kirsty debuted an elevated rendition of a matchbook in gold that is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The pendant opens to reveal a match. “You are here” and a palm tree are engraved on the exterior. Specially cut lapis or pink opal forms the strike strip with a platinum staple at the center.
I like that the statement “You are here” is open to interpretation. With the palm tree, it could mean imagine you are on a beach, and with the matchbook, maybe you are in a Tikki bar enjoying a piña colada. Or maybe it means live in the moment. In other words, enjoy being where you are, even if it’s not a relaxing vacation.
Venyx
If there’s one thing I’ve learned about Millennials, it’s that many in this generation refuse to be defined by stereotypes, either in style or in life. Eugenie Niarchos and her Venyx collection fit this impossible-to-pigeonhole description perfectly. Venyx includes statement pieces that work with the high fashions Eugenie can be seen wearing on her Instagram page on occasion. It also has personal talismans that could be tossed on for trips like the cruise she once took in the Artic or off-the-grid excursions to Burning Man.
In the spirit of no limits, Eugenie doesn’t hesitate to add something singular to her collection like her Chikara Rainbow Mahou Bracelets and Mahou Diamond Ring. They center on the word “Magic.”
The bold gold bracelet is lit up in rainbow enamel intended to signify the essence of the 90s. As a Gen Xer who was there, I can say they do with certainty. The word Eugenie has chosen to focus on, “Magic,” also opens up the idea of the great possibilities of today.