W
hile an exceptional curation of designer fine jewelry is always a given at COUTURE, this year’s show was unlike any other. For one, the boundaries of luxury are being redrawn. In this dynamic landscape, the explosion of digital innovation and creativity has unlocked endless possibilities in design. No longer confined to conventional norms, designers are embarking on journeys of self-discovery, pushing the limits of what constitutes luxurious adornment. From modern takes on classic pieces to imaginative creations infused with irreverence and fun, fine jewelry is evolving in exciting new directions.
Below are my Top 5 highlights from Couture 2024:
Header image features pieces by Marie Lichtenberg, image courtesy of @archanathani
BIGGER, BOLDER, BETTER:
This year is all about making a statement. From mega initial pendants by Marie Lichtenberg, Renato Cipullo, and Emily P. Wheeler, oversized and statement necklaces from Beck Jewels, Rainbow K and Lauren Rubinski, chunky cuffs and rings by Vitlier, Anita Ko, Tabayer, and Never Not, oversized pieces was a theme you couldn’t ignore. 2024 is screaming bigger is better.
EXCEPTIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP
A major highlight at COUTURE was the exceptional level of craftsmanship on display. Alongside industry heavyweights like Sevan Biçakçi and Arunashi, Silvia Furmanovich’s Horse Mane collection stood out. Collaborating with female Chilean artisans, she created pieces of such breathtaking beauty it was hard to believe your eyes.
Castro Smith’s work featured entire stories engraved on impossibly small surfaces, showcasing incredible skill. Francesca Villa’s reversible bracelet, made with objet trouvé, boasted cameos on one side and hand-painted enamel on the other, making it a challenge to choose which side to wear. Designers were truly dedicated to preserving and celebrating craftsmanship.
PLAYFUL JEWELS
From hologram pendants by Lauren Rubinski, rewindable cassette pendants by Sorellina, luggage-themed pendants by Never Not, 8-ball and dice pendants by Marie Lichtenberg and Beck Jewels, and boldly colored pieces by L’atelier Nawbar, it was evident that designers were infusing luxury with a sense of playfulness.
WANDERLUST JEWELS
Shells from Renna Jewels, Dezso by Sara Beltran, and Jenna Blake Jewelry, along with beach-found stones from Beck Jewels and CVC Stones, evoke a longing for a seaside escape. These designers prove that sea-inspired jewelry isn’t just for summer—it’s perfect for year-round wear.
CORD, COLLAR, & CHOKER NECKLACES
This year—alongside your wrists— your neck is becoming prime real estate, and designers are answering the call with exquisite cords, collars, and choker necklaces to enhance our style. Whether worn alone or layered, these pieces effortlessly transition from day to night and season to season. Bea Bongiasca, Beck Jewels, Azlee, and Mason and Brooks Jewelry highlighted cords, while Venyx and Sauer dazzled with gold collars. With such a diverse range of styles available, there’s something to suit every taste.