T
he 2024 COUTURE Design Awards were illustrative of how our designers and brands continue to push the envelope on innovation and creativity. Knowing that a unique panel of judges will be contemplating the minute details of every single entry, and that the accolades that accompany winning or being a finalist in each category are pronounced, our designers are continually inspired to submit their best, most current work into the competition.
And while the nuances of their discourse shall remain private, we want to once again break down each of the winner and finalist designs to highlight why and how the judges reached their verdict.
We implemented the juried formula for selecting the finalists and winners in each category back in 2012. Prior to that, it was all people’s choice, which meant that the winning pieces sometimes seemed to have been based on popularity or campaigning. By making the competition anonymous and bringing in a unique panel which includes two retailers, two members of the press and one designer, the merits of each and every entry can be considered through the lens of diverse, critical perspectives.
I am privileged to be one of very few members of the COUTURE team who are allowed access to the room in which the judging takes place on Saturday morning, when each of the highest ranking pieces, based on the judges’ independent preliminary scoring, are brought in to be discussed. And while the nuances of their discourse shall remain private, we want to once again break down each of the winner and finalist designs to highlight why and how the judges reached their verdict.
This year’s panel included Alexandra Lippin of Elyse Walker, Amy Lane of Bergdorf Goodman, jewelry curator and journalist, Archana Thani, Tracey Ellison of The Diamonds Girl, and designer Marco Bicego. Sometimes it takes a while for the panel to hit their stride, but this group seemed to fall into a rhythm almost immediately, and while there were differences of opinions to be sure, an accord was always quickly achieved after whomever felt strongest about their choice explained their reasoning.
Best in Below $10,000 Retail:
This is only the second year following the introduction of this category, and we couldn’t be more thrilled with the number of submissions it has received. While several of the submissions were discussed, it came down to a gold choker from ASHAHA, a colorful pendant from L’Atelier Nawbar, and a chunky link bracelet from CAPOLAVORO. The judges were impressed at how substantive all three pieces were within the price point, noting the quality of the craftmanship and of the materials incorporated into the design. The ASHAHA necklace ultimately won the day, with all of the judges remarking on the elegant simplicity of the design and noting how wearable the piece was, with one stating, “This is just a really beautiful, gold necklace that I could wear every day.”
As it turns out, those were qualities the brand intended to be noticed. “The Ashaha Shiraz choker stands out for its exceptional technical craftsmanship, which combines aesthetics with functionality to create a piece that is both beautiful and practical,” Cindy Khalifa explained from Paris. She went on to tell us about the innovative features of the design, which include adjustable fit, lightweight construction, ergonomic design, quick and easy closure, flexible structure, versatile wearability, adaptive style and timeless appeal. “In essence, the Ashaha Shiraz choker’s technical brilliance lies in its combination of comfort, ease of use, and striking design, making it a perfect accessory for modern women who value both beauty and practicality in their jewelry.”
Best in Bridal:
This year’s Best in Bridal category was more competitive than it’s been in past years. It seems as if our designers and brands are increasingly leaning into bridal jewelry, whether with engagement rings or day-of bridal pieces. The three finalists this year all happened to be unique twists on classic engagement ring styles from Vanessa Fernandez Studio, Gumuchian and Jade Trau.
The judges were enamored with each of these rings, noting they would be beautiful worn as an engagement ring or as a fabulous, right hand ring. Jade’s oval diamond appears to be floating in a frame of 18k gold, showcasing her well-honed acumen with diamonds, and Gumuchian’s interpretation of a Toi et Moi ring (which happened to come straight off of the recently married finger of Myriam Gumuchian’s daughter, Romy!) featured a white and a yellow diamond of the exceptional quality for which the brand is known, yet it was debuting designer, Vanessa Fernandez, who took home the prize. The judges remarked on the uniqueness of the diamond’s setting and noted the bespoke quality of the piece, once again adeptly identifying, without knowing the designer, why the piece was worthy of top honors.
When asked what makes her piece special, Vanessa told us, “I would say what makes this piece special is that it’s completely handcrafted. The piece is sculptural and, although it may appear simple in construction, it was actually very complex to fabricate. It’s composed of two tapering wires which twist on to one another, so the entire piece is twisting and tapering simultaneously without any breaks or solder joints; the only element that is soldered are the prongs which are cut to a claw. The taper is also flattened on its exterior but rounded in the crevice.”
Vanessa told us that the diamond itself, a unique and rare, 4.01ct very shallow and “spread-y” antique-inspired cut, was also incredibly special, explaining, “I specifically sourced this diamond and designed this ring for entering into the COUTURE Design Awards. It was the first piece I made in this collection and I’m so happy I followed my gut and pushed the design to include an angled setting, which crosses the finger beautifully. The sides curve and swoop around the finger to create a romantic, bold yet feminine sculptural piece.”
Best in Colored Gemstones Below $40,000 Retail:
Our colored gemstone categories are always incredibly competitive, and the discussions around this year’s Best in Colored Gemstones Above and Below $40,000 were a reflection of that intensity. When reviewing pieces in the Best in Colored Gemstones Below $40,000 retail category, the judges were impressed by the intricacy of the design showcased in the earrings by Ananya and enticed ty the detailed work of Alexander Laut’s strawberry pendant, but ultimately, it was the elegant showcase of color in RENNA’s Ombré aquamarine and citrine necklace that won the judges’ hearts. They loved the thoughtful use of color in the piece and admired the contrast of the soft hues of the stones and the bold, 18k yellow gold chain, qualities of the piece of which the designer herself was particularly proud.
“I always design what I want to wear—pieces that are magical and whimsical and a bit unexpected,” Renna Brown-Taher said of her winning piece. “For me, the choice of stones was critical; I wanted a piece that was soft and subtle. I love meditative, soft colors. For this necklace, I landed on an ombré of aquamarines and citrines to echo a dreamy sunrise. The unsung hero of this piece though is the hefty yet flexible chain which is the perfect counterbalance to the delicate fringe.”
Best in Colored Gemstones Above $40,000 Retail:
Best in Colored Gemstones Above $40,000 Retail is always one of the most difficult for our judges to narrow down. While we put restraints on the minimum amount a piece must cost, the sky is the limit in terms of how expensive the submissions can be, meaning our judges have to consider some extremely rare, exceptionally beautiful gemstones. And the quality of the materials used is just one of the criteria our judges take into account; they’re also looking at the craftsmanship of each piece, it’s wearability, uniqueness and the singular perspective inherent in its design. These are all reasons the three finalists, TABAYER, B.P. de Silva and Chantecler Capri, made it into the room, and yet there is another more esoteric factor that helped the judges reached their final decisions. Within each category, the judges are aware that they are establishing what the category represents in the given year, based on their specific input.
The modified, emerald-cut, unheated yellow sapphire in B.P. de Silva’s piece was unquestionably breathtaking, and the exquisitely crafted combination of titanium, 18k gold with diamonds, pink sapphires, purple sapphires and enamel in Chantecler Capri’s spectacular collar necklace was astounding. Yet, in the judges’ estimation, TABAYER’s use of red jasper in combination with sapphire and diamond pavé in fairmined gold in their Oera choker was the more profound representation of a Best of Colored Gemstone category.
“The Oera Edition 04 Choker is the standout piece of this collection,” noted the brand’s founder, Nigora Tokhtabayeva. “It embodies our design ethos, emphasizing sculptural and elemental forms through complex and technical craftsmanship. The red jasper stones are hand-carved to perfectly fit the necklace’s curvature, and each sapphire and diamond pavé is meticulously selected for its exquisite quality.”
Best in Editors’ Choice:
Unlike our primary categories, Editors’ Choice is selected by attending media, who cast their votes after viewing the pieces on display in the Design Awards hallway. It’s always interesting to see how the writers, editors and influencers weigh in because it’s generally across the board when it comes to 1st and 2nd place, which makes sense given that they represent a vast array of publications and outlets conveying very unique points of view. However, despite their differences, there is usually consensus on the one design that takes home the win.
This year, an equal number of votes went to LUVOR for the stunning, diamond and emerald sautoir that was designed to portray leaves changing color from green to yellow in the autumn, and newcomer ROUVENAT’s Bolt Tourmaline Imperiale necklace from the brand’s High Jewelry collection, which was created from one of 3,000 gauches by Leon Rouvenat, who was designing back in the 1850’s. Ultimately, our influential media selected the work of the inimitable designer Silvia Furmanovich, a pair of singular earrings featuring clusters of miniature flowers carefully spun in pink, violet and lilac horse mane by Chilean artisans using centuries-old weaving techniques.
“The prize-winning earrings embody a unique blend of traditional craftsmanship and innovative design,” Silvia explained. “The earrings are crafted using horse mane, which is meticulously woven by an exceptional community of artisans in Chile. Their ancestral weaving techniques bring an extraordinary level of detail and artistry to the piece, highlighting the beauty and versatility of natural materials. The design is a celebration of cultural heritage and collaboration. Working with the Chilean artisans allowed me to honor their rich craftsmanship traditions and create something that transcends cultural boundaries. This collaboration underscores my commitment to fostering craftsmanship and preserving artisanal skills from around the world. I am incredibly honored and grateful to COUTURE, which has provided an incredible platform for us to show our work to the world.”
Best in Diamonds Below $40,000 Retail:
While we continually celebrate the willingness of our designers and brands to work with interesting and unexpected materials (see Silvia Furmanovich’s winning piece in the Editors’ Choice Award above!), diamonds remain a staple for of the vast majority of collections showcased at COUTURE. When it comes to establishing what to submit into our Design Awards each year, many of our designers lean on diamonds to demonstrate their breadth of talent and creativity to the community, making our two diamond categories a breathtaking display of ingenuity.
In the Best in Diamonds Below $40,000 category, our judges were particularly enamored with the submissions by DEMEGLIO and Studio Renn, specifically for their avant-garde use of diamonds. DEMEGLIO combined diamonds set in 18k white gold with matte black ceramic in a necklace that is both chic and wearable, while Studio Renn’s Seed Leaf Inside Out earrings feature inverted diamonds set without prongs to create reflections on the inside panel of the earrings. And yet, the judges thought that ONDYN’s Grand Fringe cuff with its undulating rows of bezel set articulated white diamonds was an especially interesting interpretation of a classic diamond staple; they loved the movement of the piece and how it felt on the wrist, admiring the ingenuity and thoughtfulness of the design.
“We are incredibly grateful for this recognition and award that celebrates not just a piece of jewelry, but the artistry and emotion behind it, the passion and dedication that goes into each creation,” explained ONDYN designer, Tara Maria Famiglietti. “This piece is so special to me for its ability to create a mesmerizing dance of light and movement, showcasing the brilliance of each diamond. It’s sophisticated with a touch of daring, like a flame of diamonds on the wrist.”
Diamonds Above $40,000 Retail:
The submissions to this year’s Diamonds Above $40,000 Retail category ran the gamut, from a sprinkling of diamonds to “more is more” statements. Interestingly, the judges selected pieces from each of these categories as finalists. The Chicago earrings submitted by Busatti 1947 were deceptively light, their intricate pattern of alternate trapezoid diamonds set in grey titanium with a matte finish were the perfect balance between understatement and sophisticated sparkle. YEPREM’s majestic headpiece was a true reflection of the brand’s commitment to excellence, its intricate craftsmanship and design befitting royalty. Ultimately, the judges were blown away by the masterpiece submitted by Gismondi 1754, remarking on the intricacy of the design and the exquisite quality of the diamonds incorporated into the piece.
Entitled Fenice, which is Italian for Phoenix, the one-of-a-kind necklace was inspired by both the type of palm called Phoenix and the mythological bird that is reborn from its own ashes. On the brand’s Instagram account, they pay homage to Hyperion Lab, the group’s factory who fabricated the piece, noting, “Fenice took over 500 hours and several months to make from sketch to wax mold, cast and hand setting each stone…The plumage or branches surrounding the neck that descend across and down the decolletage represent both the feathers and the flowing palm leaves where she created her nest. The neck is fashioned with two strands of diamonds, one round and one pear shapes fastening the necklace. Cascading from the center stone is an intentionally disarranged pattern of 38 ‘feathers’ or ‘branches’ placed at varying lengths and in different directions; some straight, some curved, some stationary, some with movement.”
Best in Gold:
As noted by Rebecca Butler, Professional Jeweler’s editor who presented the award for Best in Gold this year, “Gold’s malleability coupled with the hold it’s had on the human psyche for thousands of years make it an irresistible medium for creative expression.” There was a lot of back and forth among the judges before they whittled their selection down to the top three picks, and further discussions trying to place their selections into first, second and third.
Hargreaves Stockholm took full advantage of the metal’s flexibility in the creation of their Enchanted Golden Book, which indeed enchanted our judges! The piece elegantly unfurls to adorn the wrist, telling the magical story of the nomad, and when the story ends, the hand engraved and diamond encrusted pages fold back up to create a magical pendant, just waiting for the next reader. Similarly, the judges were impressed with the detail and precision debuting COUTURE designer Pamela Zamore applied to the creation of her Flow bangle. While they couldn’t have known that she designed its fluid form to echo the soft lines of the body, the judges all commented on how solid yet graceful the piece felt on the wrist and admired the contrast of its polished ridges and sandblasted channels.
The designers behind the winning piece, Kelly Souied and Kelia Toedano of Rainbow K, think of jewelry as the “ultimate” accessory, and that was evident in their submission this year. A variation of their Ball collection, balls of 18k gold elegantly drift around the neck, disks of diamonds accentuating their high polished shine, “We dreamed of it,” enthused the French designers. “Winning the award is a consecration for us, an achievement. It is a huge pride. Participating in this event adds a lot of charm to this extraordinary adventure that is COUTURE.”
Best in Innovative:
Our Best in Innovative category is always one of the most exciting; not only is all of the jewelry stunning in the usual way, but it is also a breathtaking combination of form and function, with each submission more than meets the eye. Whether incorporating moving parts, interesting and unexpected materials, or precious materials adorning items that may otherwise be considered “every day,” these pieces are true conversation starters. When introducing the award for this year’s Best in Innovative category, the inimitable writer and fashion correspondent, Lynn Yaeger, referred to the designers who submitted work in this year’s Innovative category as “misfits,” noting, and admiring, their “devil-may-care” attitude towards convention.
The judges carefully considered each of the entries and were enamored by Silvia Furmanovich’s earrings for both their beauty, and their innovative use of materials. They also loved the novelty of the lighter submitted by S.T. Dupont, which was the result of a partnership with Frank Muller and featured watchmaking complications. Yet their selection of Sorellina’s 18k gold Cassette pendant was an immediate and unanimous front runner. Featuring diamonds encased in white sapphires and accented with a pencil-shaped charm with which to “rewind” the cassette, the pendant’s chain is a series of diamond encrusted play, rewind, fast forward and pause buttons.
There was no shortage of remarks among the judges about their own ages and why the piece struck such a chord, which, as it turns out, was part of the intention behind the piece. Explains the brand’s designer, Nicole Carosella, “I think the combination of artistry and nostalgia is what makes this piece so special; it evokes joy in the wearer, and we love seeing how much it resonates with people.”
Best in Platinum:
Our Best in Platinum category hasn’t traditionally been our most competitive, but that changed a couple of years ago. There are a few reasons this shift may have taken place. The rising price of gold and the relative stability in the price of platinum means there’s no longer a huge price gap between the two precious metals, trends in fashion are increasingly leaning towards cool metals and/or mixing metals, and our friends at Platinum Guild International (PGI) came up with a brilliant partnership campaign! Beginning in 2022, PGI worked with COUTURE to identify a diverse list of prominent designers who typically only work in yellow gold and provided them with platinum with which to create a piece or two in the naturally white metal. As it turns out, once designers try working in platinum, they get hooked! Several of the designers in each years’ program continue to create pieces in platinum, with new brands added in 2023 and 2024. Subsequently, some of the designers submitted their creations into the Best in Platinum category and next thing you know, our Best in Platinum category is not to be taken lightly.
Jade Ruzzo participated in both the 2023 and 2024 Platinum Spotlight program, while Walters Faith has participated since its inception. The judges loved Jade’s “Cymbal” earrings, and commented on how they looked great on the ear, but also cleverly came together into the perfect shape and texture of the musical instrument for which they are named. And they loved the modern interpretation on a classic silhouette showcased in Walters Faith diamond and platinum buckle cuff bracelet.
Yet it was Eva Ferhen’s double finger “Horizon” ring that ultimately took home the prize. The judges loved the edginess of this piece and were impressed with the lozenge cut diamond that takes centerstage, noting the fluidity with which the unique diamond was set into the design. “This particular piece is special to me because we managed to subvert traditional ideas and codes about the way modern diamonds can be worn,” Eva explained. “This ring walks that fine line between classic and avant-garde. We took a very special stone that would normally be used for an engagement type ring and put it in a non-traditional, subtly irreverent double finger setting, The result is a diamond that seemingly floats across two fingers on a line of light. Being acknowledged for a piece that represents my unique take on how to wear diamonds was really meaningful to me.”
Best in Haute Couture:
We introduced our Best in Haute Couture category at the same time we introduced Best in Innovative in reaction to the submissions we were seeing. No matter how many colored gemstones, diamonds, platinum, gold or pearls these pieces contained, there was no way those category names could encapsulate these designs; our designers had literally out-designed themselves!
Given that there is a technical meaning behind the name “haute couture,” each year, our panel of judges has to determine what the expression means to our event and our community. This year the judges were blown away by several submissions in the category. The intricacy and craftsmanship of the cuff submitted by Cicada, which is as exquisite on the inside as it is to the visible eye, was lauded for its color combination and the unique setting style of the stones, and the details inherent in Francesca Villa’s reversable bracelet sparked extensive conversations about the imaginativeness of the design. Yet it was the reverse engraved intaglio in Sevan Bicakci’s “Immortal Love” necklace that rendered them all speechless which, as it turns out, was one of the intentions behind the design.
“I crafted my Eternal Love necklace with the vision of adorning the image of a fairytale princess,” Sevan explained. “My goal was to captivate observers, transporting them into the realm of my muse. At its heart lies a large rock crystal, intricately engraved with a scene of two peacocks meeting over an ancient ornamental pool. When infused with pale blue and golden hues, the crystal resembles a Paraiba Tourmaline, evoking an otherworldly mineral with vibrant life. Three golden arms, adorned with sparkling diamonds, gracefully descend along the neckline, serving as both the support and natural extension of this extraordinary stone. My intention to enchant viewers with a beautiful dream has been achieved, possibly contributing to its recognition in the Haute Couture category.”
Best in Pearls:
As demonstrated each year by the submissions in our Best in Pearls category, pearls can be the centerpiece of cutting edge and innovative designs. Gone are the days of our “grandmother’s pearls”; these pieces showcase the versatility inherent in these venerable gifts of the sea, and this year’s submissions were nothing short of awe-inspiring. Two of the finalists this year featured Conch Pearls, which are among the rarest gems in the world, and our panel of judges immediately took notice. The necklace submitted by Leigh Maxwell featured over 79 carats of natural conch pearls set in her signature style in 18k gold was lauded for its casual elegance, and they waxed poetic about the craftsmanship of Arunashi’s fleur-de-lys earrings showcasing 26cts of matching conch pearls in a frame of titanium and angel skin coral.
Yet it was the Enchantress necklace by Australia-based AUTORE that won the ultimate accolades. Comprised of pink and white diamonds, with a 2ct pear shape diamond on the head of the naturally contoured serpent necklace, the body of the piece contains organically formed Keshi South Sea pearls, which were collected over the course of 8 years and are evocative of the serpent eggs. The eyes are set with black diamonds and moonstones in an uncanny verisimilitude of a serpent’s eyes, and the judges were taken aback by the complexity of engineering it took to create the articulations that provided the piece its subtle movement and enamored by the symbolism expressed in the many details of the design.
Noted a brand statement about the award winning piece, “In creating the Enchantress Necklace, embodying a beautiful, jewelled Serpent, AUTORE drew inspiration from the historical and ancient mythological symbolism of Serpents as representing creative life force, fertility, rebirth, transformation, healing and protection.”
Best in Debuting:
Our Best in Debuting category is always one of our most exciting! All new-to-COUTURE designers who submit in any category are considered in their primary category (i.e. Best in Haute Couture) as well as in the Best in Debuting category. While the judges apply the utmost seriousness in their consideration of all categories, they are perhaps most emotionally attached to Best in Debuting. Afterall, this is a true showcase of someone who is NEW to our event, and it is important that the winning piece is a representation of the exceptional talent that makes up our design community.
DEMEGLIO’s diamond and matte black ceramic necklace from the brand’s Artiglio collection also received a nod in the Best in Diamonds Below $40,000 retail category, and the brooch submitted by Joywith Jewelry in the Haute Couture category enamored the judges with its incredible materials and the delicate and intricate splendor of its craftsmanship. Yet it was the reversable bracelet Francesca Villa entered into the Haute Couture category, which also placed third in its primary category, that the judges all felt truly needed to take home the prize; the judges felt that the creativity on display in its design detail and the thoughtfulness of its fabrication deserved another nod.
“The finished bracelet is a showcase of mastercraft to tell an enchanting story,” Francesca explains about the intricacy of the piece. “Change Your Stripes – We showcase our serious side with a dedication to the gods with vintage cameos encircled in diamonds, rich jasper, and golden leather; and we rejoice in our youthful and nostalgic side with fruits and vegetables set on a graphic table cloth, enriched with diamonds, encircled by enamel stripes and a fine scarlet leather. Set in 18k gold, the clasp is decorated with Emeralds, Green Tourmaline, Citrine, Lemon Sapphires, Yellow Sapphires, Orange Sapphires, Pink Tourmaline, Fuchsia Sapphires and Peridot.”
People’s Choice:
The three finalists in our People’s Choice Award are selected by, you guessed it, the people! Attending retailers review all of the submitted designs and weigh in on their top three choices among all of the submissions. After the votes have been counted, the three pieces who received the greatest number of submissions become the official finalists, and then we have a live text-to-vote during the evening event.
This year’s finalists showcased the breadth of designs to which our community is drawn. ROSMUNDO’s Nest of Life necklace and brooch was a stand out, and the titanium collar necklace from Chantecler Capris’ Mediterranea collection was breathtaking even from across the room. Yet Richard Wu’s mask was one of the most buzzed about pieces throughout the show.
“I think what makes it special is that the craftsmanship is incredible’ it is purely handmade from Titanium and gold, which makes it extremely thin, light and strong at the same time,” Richard told us. “And the look is astonishing, I named it Black Veil, to me it has multiple meanings, it is a shield that protect, it is a lace that attracts, and it is a distraction that heals anxiety too.”
Cindy Edelstein:
The last category of the Design Awards event each year is decidedly the most special. The Cindy Edelstein Award is named after the late designer advocate and longtime COUTURE team member, Cindy Edelstein, and is presented each year to an individual in our community who embodies Cindy’s most revered and celebrated qualities. We reach out to our entire community and ask them to nominate someone who is a leader in the industry, has demonstrated a longstanding commitment to the COUTURE community and the industry at large and has been an inspiration to others due to their “enthusiastic attitude and unabated vitality.” Intended to commemorate the generosity of spirit Cindy displayed throughout her life, the person should also showcase dedication to the success of both upcoming and established brands.
This year’s recipient exemplifies all of those qualities and more. Julie Von Bargen Thom was nominated by countless people who wanted her dedication, passion and exceptional work ethic to be widely acknowledged. Owner of Von Bargen’s Jewelry, with locations in Stratton, Stowe, Quechee and Burlington, Vermont and Hanover, New Hampshire, Julie has taken the business she inherited from her late father, John Von Bargen, and infused the strong foundation he established with her own, individual and unique style. While she continually focuses on enhancing and evolving the business, she remains committed to honoring the heritage of the brand’s ethos. Leading by example, she encourages her dedicated and loyal team to share in her genuine love for the craft, and the joy she finds in matching makers with collectors is an ongoing source of inspiration.
This award is always meant to be a surprise to the recipient, and so pulling together the tribute video that announces the award can be a bit of a challenge that sometimes requires some subterfuge on the part of those brought into the fold. Who can you trust? Among those who nominated the recipient, who truly knows this person? Who can we get to be our “inside guy” that can stealthily access albums of images and videos? This year, that honor (and burden?!) went to Roxanne Prescot, a salesperson with the store who has worked with the company for decades, and regularly travels with Julie to visit designers’ studios and to attend COUTURE. While a terrible liar (I mean, she really just can’t lie!), Roxanne was the absolutely perfect liaison to have on our side. A huge advocate for Von Bargen’s and for Julie personally, she was thoughtful and intentional in the selection of whom to include in the video, and approached the whole project with kindness, consideration and excitement. Ultimately, the award came as an enormous surprise to Julie, who was also flabbergasted that her husband, Jason, had conspired to fly into Vegas without her knowing and witness her being honored.