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October 05, 2022

Brand Spotlight: Susana Martins

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usana Martins’ fascination with the history of jewelry and jewelry making began at a young age. Born in a traditional goldsmithing town between Porto and Braga in northern Portugal, her surroundings significantly contributed to her world view. Fueled by her passion for the artform, she initially trained as a stone-setter before undertaking a goldsmith apprenticeship that allowed her to learn the local artisans’ most ancient and complex techniques.

Her depth of understanding of her craft liberates her creativity, allowing her to conceive of an idea and bring it to fruition seamlessly.

She wanted to immerse herself more fully in her craft, so she went on to earn her post-graduate diploma in Jewellery Design from the School of Arts at Oporto Catholic University and obtained additional qualifications as a gemologist and diamond grader. It was with this deep foundation of knowledge and experience that she launched her eponymous brand, Susana Martins Jewellery (SMJ).

Now based in Dubai, Susana continues to oversee every aspect of the fabrication process, from sourcing and cutting diamonds and gemstones to producing the finished piece. Her depth of understanding of her craft liberates her creativity, allowing her to conceive of an idea and bring it to fruition seamlessly. This ease born of intense study and dedication to her craft allows the designer to convey the range of human experience through her work. “My pieces are not about self-expression as much as they are about how they communicate with our sense, memory, emotions and body,” she explains. “SMJ is a gateway to share my passion for all things creative, inspiring people’s lifestyle through exceptional product experiences.”

Susana is heavily influenced by a variety of historical periods and is most intensely drawn to the Art Deco era. She is compelled by both the aesthetics of the period, as well as its significance in pioneering techniques in jewelry making and its impact on a wide range of artistic genres. Moved by the intersection of architecture and design, her pieces reflect this passion through texture, balance and the confluence of geometric and fluid lines.

The human form plays a significant role in Susana’s creative process. Many pieces in her prolific body of work incorporate the body into the design. Her Unstoppables collection, which was inspired while sitting with a dear friend and witnessing her expressing herself with her hands, was created with no “front” or “behind” in mind. “Our hands’ motions inspires the 360° perception present in each piece and the energy we project into the activity around us,” she says. From ear climbers to ear cuffs to rings designed around negative space, her designs boast unique dimensions that defy perceptions of both space and geometry.

 

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